NYFW SS19 has seen designer Jason Wu making a lot of changes. This season, for the first time since beginning his brand in 2006, Wu chose to present his collection off-runway, instead opting for a more modest and personal presentation for his latest designs.
This intimate setting created an individual touch which was highly fitting for Wu’s Spring designs, as this collection was about personally re-defining his identity as a designer. “There’s no bigger ‘them’ in this collection,” Wu said, “It’s about 16 dresses that define who I am.”
The move away from the runway wasn’t the only change Wu has made this season. While merging his contemporary line Grey into his main collection, he announced the debut of his new luxury tier Jason Wu Collection. This further represents a tightening of the Jason Wu brand, and a redefinition of what a Jason Wu design entails.
Wu’s SS19 collection combined femininity and modernity, a juxtaposition that was mirrored by the presentation’s setting of a backdrop of delicate flowers against contemporary red brick. Each silhouette and line is his collection is graceful, with tulle and delicate lace acting as defining features on many of the pieces. However, the pin-stripe design on many of the dresses makes reference to classic men’s suits, a detail which suggests that, nowadays, women’s fashion needn’t make a choice between femininity and power-driven modernity – women can have it all.
Neutral colours on many of the pieces suggested a simple and classic femininity, while bolder colours and patterns on others indicated that women’s fashion is necessarily about expression of personality, and one-size no longer fits all. Just as Wu seeks to re-assert himself through his new collection, his pieces offer the opportunity for women to define and express what makes them unique.
By Hannah Valentine
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