NYFW AW17: Oscar de la Renta

WITH Peter Copping out at Oscar de la Renta, it was up to new creative director duo Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia to give AW17 the lustre that much of Copping’s output unfortunately lacked. The designers usurping their predecessor, who was appointed by de la Renta himself, set about doing so with a collection of clothing that stylishly skirted between established couture-cum-casual house codes and 2017 edge.

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Beginning in black with a sloped shoulder trouser suit and followed by a similarly realised tight-fitting jumpsuit, both given a focal gold brooch detail, it was timelessly chic statement looks that led the way from then on. Models were dressed to kill by Kim and Garcia with evening wear set to stun in regal blue and fire engine red satin lavishing the body.

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Satin – on even the astrakhan fur on coats – shimmered, its resplendence interposed by blazing block colours, such as the outstanding orange of a turtle neck next to the bashful pale pink of the trousers below. A strapless admiral blue evening gown that appeared as a large droplet of sequins gathered around the hips below a tight bodice in a way that stole the show, making it’s wearer an instant hit.

Other looks that came after and before, oversized, fitted, flower embellishment encrusted, monochrome, sexy, a dappled fur skirt surely sweeping those two categories, ticked all the boxes and showed the new design team’s eagerness to impress audiences that have felt indifferent towards the brand over the past few seasons. No doubt this is just what the house needs and providing this momentum continues with more experimentation and signature looks Oscar de le Renta will live on in the lap of luxury it is revered for.

by Livia Feltham

Images courtesy of Oscar de la Renta

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