JASON Wu has modernised his sophisticated feminine aesthetic yet again in New York this season. The designer’s latest collection showed an overall eagerness to roll out a roster of wearable formal looks after a single dressed down look opened the show, although even this consisted of matching t-shirt and trousers with polka-dot print. This pattern was then carried through on camel colour suits and dresses for day. Elegant day dressing, it would seem, being a metiér that Wu is more than happy to mull over for an entire collection.
Fishnet tights were added for 2017 edge, able to be glanced below any slightly stuffier designs to successfully de-formalise. Most designs were entirely on the mark, however. Easy chic sweaters with cut-out décolletages showed Wu embracing mainstream fashions but doing so with class, with other top-detail-heavy ensembles featuring windows of skins where fabric slipped with sensual insouciance off the body.
As the show pressed on materials meant to impress. A dazzling gold velour was wrapped into dresses and jumpsuits alongside similar metal black versions encrusted with diamanté specks. Nude illusion dresses daringly ended AW17 for Wu.
These suggested the gifted designer can easily bring his dabhand to sculpting for a sexy new mood picking up momentum on catwalks but weren’t spectacular examples of this. Never forced out of his comfort zone throughout, however this meant another snazzy set of clothing and reinstated faith in New York as a fashion capital.
by Livia Feltham
Images courtesy of Jason Wu
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