Jason Wu approached his AW16 as a classically American fashion designer, ticking all the boxes to design the most effective style staples for a fashion-conscious woman of means. Choosing not to run any outward inspirational or thematic thread through his latest collection the Taiwanese-Canadian yet firmly New York-based designer devoted all the attention to the production of the clothing and the way each piece, often varied in their general structure, moved around the body.
A somewhat dreary check pattern opened the collection, but given a simple brown mink collar became beautifully bashful and classic. This long coat aesthetic would eventually evolve into another standout in the shape of a rich brown leather coat with atomic white mink collar, so generally win-win there.
Underneath the display of assorted clothing styles included cocktail dresses that clung to the body with chic ostrich feather guard hairs, looser ones which gave room to breathe with sketchy floral prints and daywear that was entirely pragmatic to say the least.
Speaking of this pragmatism the collection, if anything, did follow a particular trend of creating clothes with a mind for business. This was a clever concoction of the corporate luxe and the clean, or washed out in fact, with even a full length mink taking on an orderly block pattern.
Indeed, like right angles, this was one of the least challenging sartorial concepts Wu has ever brought to that catwalk in his entire career. Perhaps this is Wu’s idea of saving face in an industry of uncertainty, but who knows.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Jason Wu