“I wanted to focus on the new Mugler woman” so said David Koma, Mugler’s newly appointed creative director about Resort 2015, but really, what else could he say? Archive talk is often dangerous, especially when you become top dog at a onetime mega-house like Thierry Mugler, so Koma made a fairly concerted effort to look forward, but not without making a few passing sentiments reminding us what Thierry Mugler once was. But this is Mugler, the Mugler that now delivers a defined statement of unpresumptuously forward femininity, one which has left us wanting more and in the best possible way.
Strict, formal and statement shapes come into contact genially with a flirtatious belted binding of the body, and this certainly enkindles a pleasantly auspicious Resort fling. Clasping structured tailoring is top-notch as should be expected, Koma does well here, and many of the predominantly body contouring pieces become a chic two-edged functional-decorative sword, and this ooh la la lure is retained in the racy bulk of the collection too. Elsewhere, you’ll spot a slinky number snapped up by Georgia May Jagger at the Met Ball this year, and following flashes of skin and cunning cut-outs make guarantees for more to come.
Modern sequin veneers and some slap happy prints add a little bit of bawdiness, but that’s all for now folks, but because these elements are executed with finesse it definitely quenches our thirst sufficiently. Witnessing the new Mugler woman trying to “find herself” bit by bit feels slightly unsettling though, because the Mugler woman should unswervingly have a rigid concept of who she is, what she can do and why in gods earth she is doing it. Get ready for printemps été though, Glass has a feeling that by that time the heightened sex appeal of the Muglerette will definitely come through, and then some.
by Liam Feltham
Images courtesy of Style.com