MFW SS18: Etro

THE signature paisley and other colourful prints were preceded by an entourage of white at Etro’s SS18 show. This was a celebratory show to mark the brand’s 50^th anniversary and, for the first time, show women’s and men’s collections side by side which also allowed the Etro siblings, Veronica and Kean, to work and present their offering side by side.

But if you looked closer, even the white voile cotton gowns had a discreet paisley all over it. Dresses also came in white lace, with silver thread embroidery and jewel embellishment with little matching pouches and intricate belts and big jewellery. Even toe nails were painted in metallic silver to match silver sandals. As their father, the founder of the brand Gimmo Etro, was always inspired by his travels to India, it made sense to pay homage to the brand’s biggest source of inspiration and its folklore.

Men wore matching outfits, loose white cotton trousers with white collar-less breezy shirts and an embellished jacket or scarf. Polo shirts with riding jodhpurs reaching the waist with a silk scarf tied as a belt came both in men’s and women’s versions. Men also wore cricket cable-knit sweaters.

Then colour started to slowly creep in through floral and paisley prints on silk pyjama sets and flowy chiffon dresses often worn with embellished velvet or silk waistcoats. And before we knew it, a rainbow of colours and patterns strolled down the runway. From an acid yellow smoking jacket to a striped full midi skirt in an array of hues of purple, orange, red and maroon. A dress wrapped around a model looking like a redesigned sari was a very literal reference to the collection’s influence. A sporty side was also shown, as models wore patterned leggings and sports bras with lavish coats.

The men’s collection got even more folklore with short embroidered waistcoats, heavily embellished jackets and light coats worn over pyjama sets and jodhpur trousers. However, formal double-breasted striped and checked suits worn with a paisley shirt, large overcoat, a scarf or a brooch were also present. Elsewhere, the pyjama sets were paired with matching robes. This was true Etro.

by Sara Hesikova

Images courtesy of Modus Publicity