MFW SS16: Fendi

Bloomers. Thanks, Karl. According to Milan’s most formidable trend-maker, those peculiarly gathered shorts are what we’ll all be wearing come Spring.

That said, if anyone can make sure a long-forgotten piece covetable, it’s Herr Lagerfeld. On Fendi’s SS16 runway his bloomers came in lustrous red crepe or butter-soft black leather, ruched at the waist and carefully cut to lengthen the leg.

This year, Karl celebrates his 50th anniversary at the helm of the storied Fendi house, but this was no reason for retrospect. Staying firmly out of the archives, this season’s show was as fresh as ever – a lesson in modern femininity. The focus was, as always, on the supreme fabrics: leather so supremely soft it flowed like syrup, and gossamer-fine silks that floated as if they were weightless.

The workmanship was remarkable: note the whip-stitched pockets on the snakeskin trench and the leather harness that tempered a flowing black dress. The fur – a challenge for Spring/Summer, but a Fendi signature all the same – was basket-woven for lighter, structural feel.

The pieces were supreme– they had to be, to avoid losing limelight to the incredible bags. Sylvia Fendi – who still looks after the house’s handbag designs – wrote the book on it-accessories, and this season sees her weigh-in on the personalisation trend. Each bag was adorned with one of the label’s forthcoming – in time for Christmas, hint hint – Strap You attachments.

Fendi may be known for – infamous, infact – its outré add-ons, but these interchangeable little straps really raise the bar: they will retail for the same price as a Mini Baguette. The collection comprises an array of designs, from floral-embellished to exotic-skin spliced, with each one designed to clip straight on to your favourite Peekaboo or 2 Jours. Not quite luxe enough? Have it monogrammed, madam.

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by Roberta Lister

Images courtesy of Fendi