Turkish designer Umit Benan’s love affair with Japan cannot be understated. Following his much-loved Tokyo store and recent Oniki collaboration with Japanese brand Tomorrowland, it only makes sense he would look to the Far East for his AW16 collection (amongst so many other designers).
With a show seemingly sponsored by the Yakuza, models of all ages and ethnicities walked the catwalk in Tokyo street garb – belted kimono jackets, karate uniforms and track pants layered over wife-beaters set the tone of the show as gang-banger chic. And whilst models expression portrayed a hyper masculine aggression, the clothes were so often rooted in femininity.
Take the high-cut palazzo-style pants, cinched at the waist with thick leather belts, at once both slimming the physique and highlighting the models broad, don’t-mess-with-this shoulders.
As is the current inclination, sportswear played a large part in the collection, featuring nondescript trainers under boxer-like vests and track pants – add some gloves and they’d be ready for the ring. Oversize button up shirts, emblazoned with soaring symmetrical birds added to the uninhibited nature of the situation, whilst conveying that, as ever, the patriarchal Umit Benan men is very much still in charge.
by Thomas Marrington