I’ve never bit into a raw sugar cane before – an experience I was lucky enough to partake in, during a wildlife trek through the Frédérica Nature Reserve in Bel Ombre, Mauritius. After admiring the reserve’s endless rugged landscape and cooing over an animal that was some kind of warthog, our buggy cruised through some sugar cane fields and our driver encouraged us to break off and sample a few.
Sugar used to be the island’s biggest export and even today there are countless working plantations as far as the eye can see. Chowing down on pure sugar in its natural form – a food normally seen as the devil and to be avoided at all costs back at home – is a guilty pleasure worth savouring. And, along with the warthog-type creatures, something you’d never normally encounter living in a busy Western city.
Touring the nature reserve is one of the many activities on offer at The Heritage Resorts in Domaine de Bel Ombre, situated on the South Coast of the island. The resorts are vast and sprawling, almost dauntingly so when you first arrive, encompassing 2,500 hectares of parkland that we deftly attempted to navigate with the help of a golf buggy.
La Isla Bonita pool
Mauritius itself is situated off the coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean – and the combination of Indian, European and African influences is what gives this tranquil little place its unique appeal. It also has a reputation for relatively peaceful political system and low crime rates since it gained independence in 1968 (becoming a republic in 1992).
Before the Dutch arrived in 1598, the volcanic island was previously uninhabited and is home to some of the world’s rarest – and most beautiful – wildlife and plants, many of which since the arrival of settlers and non-indigenous specials have been wiped out (the poor dodo bird most famous of them all).
Still there are some stunning sights to see – along with the idyllic tropical surroundings you’d expect from travelling to an island in the Indian Ocean. And then there’s the sea – crystal clear and the temperature of a warm bath, which alone was worth our grueling 12-hour flight – via Dubai – to get there (direct flights from the UK are also available).
La Isla Bonita Spa
As well as its natural treasures, the island’s mixture of cultures are compelling too. During an excursion tour, we are taken to the Ganga Talao temple, situated on the crater lake in the district of Savanne, considered to be the most sacred Hindu place on the island which attracts hoards of pilgrims each year. There are many beautiful statues of the different gods dotted around as well as a giant statue of the Hindu god Shiva -as towering, mystical and majestic as Rio’s famous Christ the Redeemer statue.
Our next stop is tour of a rum distillery: Rhumarie de Charamel (rum is another of the island’s exports), where booze-boffins can see how the drink is made and try a number of different flavours, not to mention tucking into some delicious local fare in the distillery’s adjoining A La Carte restarant. Our day trip is finished off admiring the natural beauty of Charamel – which includes a visit to the area’s famous Seven Coloured Earths, sand dunes made from decomposed volcanic rock, comprising seven vibrant colours. The nearby Chamarel waterfalls are another magnificent sight to see.
La Isla Bonita room
The Heritage Resorts comprise self-catered villas and two hotels: Heritage Le Telfair and Heritage Awali; on arrival it takes a few days to find your way around – especially if your villa is situated a good deal away from the main resorts and beach, as ours was. The shuttle buses available to take you to and fro are few and far between, so you’re better off getting a golf buggy and navigating the resort’s vast parkland yourself.
Having never been behind the wheel of anything in ten years, it definitely felt like a liberating experience, although you are limited if there’s one buggy between several of you sharing a villa; you either all have to go down to the main resort together – anyone staying behind can get a shuttle bus down later (which takes in the region of 20 minutes to an hour and several chasing phone calls to arrive).
La Isla Bonita beach dining
Yes, the service is charming but slow and sometimes forgetful – yet after the initial frustration subsides, it’s quite nice to go with the flow and shake off the frustration and impatience of being used to having everything delivered at the click of a button. Once you’ve adjusted to the pace of island life, it does feel like the pressures of the office are a long way away.
The villa – aside from being a good ten-minute buggy ride away from the main resort – is spacious with a pool and other amenities you’d expect, with traditional luxurious furnishings and classic décor, lounge and kitchen areas and a sprawling infinity pool and outdoor showers (where the occasional lizard might come and join you or simply observe from afar). Its is ideal if you want to spend a fuss-free week enjoying peace and quiet without the noise and commotion of other tourists and hotel staff, although the lack of easy-access to the beach is the only downside.
But if you want to be right in the centre of the action, then you obviously have to go for one of the two main hotels. Heritage Le Telfair has been designed to evoke the glamour of the late 19th and 20th centuries and is popular with honeymooners. Despite the dubious period of history that inspired it (the description ‘colonial luxury’ leaves a bad taste in my mouth), the hotel and gardens definitely exude an old-school glamour. The palatial gardens and walkways that greet you as you come through Reception upon arrival are truly breathtaking.
La Isla Bonita bathroom
There’s a heated pool and several bars to enjoy some sun, sea and sand as well as a number of restaurants offering different types of cuisine: we tucked into some delicious sushi and steak at the Japanese-themed Gin’ja restaurant, while at Le Palmier we enjoyed some tasty Mauritian sea food al fresco, while a more upmarket dining experience can be found at Annabellas which boasts tasty haute cuisine and lavish furnishings.
Heritage Awali Golf and Spa Resort draws on the island’s African culture, with warm earthy décor and drumming and dancing around an open fire which the Boma restaurant hosts once a week – along with a tempting barbeque buffet. (Watching well-meaning white people trying to do “tribal” dancing is worth the visit in itself.)
We also enjoyed a delicious curry at Awali’s plush Indian restaurant Zafarani, while the main Balafon Restaurant lays on a hearty buffet for breakfast and dinner. And you can burn off your culinary escapades the next day on the 18-hole Championship and nine hole, par three golf course which offers free unlimited green fees (excluding equipment hire), play a few games of tennis or enjoy a spot of kite surfing on the beach.
La Isla Bonita
And if you’re in need of some serious downtime, the highlight of the resort has to be Awali’s Seven Colours Spa, which is set across a beautiful water garden with paths leading off to the treatment rooms (tiny little thatched huts) and relaxation areas. Drawing on the principles of colour therapy, the treatments are geared around one of the seven colours of the chakras (your “energy centres”) which you’re presented with and feel drawn to the most; each one has a specific property, such as energising, de-stressing, relaxation etc.
The treatment room is lit with your chosen colour, or you can even opt for an outdoor massage on the beach should it take your fancy. Once I chose the desired pressure, the therapist set to work, easing out every knot and sending me into a blissful semi-comatose state in the process. All in all, it was a very happy note to end on shortly before we regretfully departed our tropical paradise and ventured back to rain-soaked London.
by Viola Levy
Heritage Resorts are based in Bel Ombre, Mauritius. Tel: 230 266 9768
A two-bedroom villa costs from £365 per night (four sharing) on a self-catering basis
Contact the resort to arrange a day excursion, nature reserve tours and other activities – prices vary.