LFW SS19: Burberry

LAST night marked a page turn in the book of Burberry. In the heart of London – across a staggering 94 runway looks – Riccardo Tisci unveiled his first collection as Chief Creative Officer for the acclaimed British brand. Solidifying a vision was crucial to the Italian designer, and his clarity of the country was as prominent as could be. Entitled Kingdom, the SS19 show was Tisci’s homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitudes that construct Britain. And contemporary eclecticism reigned.

That prominent pulse could be felt even prior to the show. Appointed as boss back in March, Tisci has done plenty to provoke a buzz in the air. Burberry’s logo was reimagined and revealed in July, taking on a more slanted, patterned visual courtesy of acclaimed artist Peter Saville. And so subversion was to be expected. That idea flourished last night through fresh direction – materialised in both womenswear and menswear. Tisci was set to celebrate the diversity that runs through England and its capital: London. Amids a manic schedule of Britain’s SS19 shows, his debut visual was a faithful mirror to life on the street outside.

From the punk and rebellious to the formal and refined, Tisci addressed it all in a coded collection that was catered for masculine and feminine co-exist. That punk sensibility was proclaimed by Tisci, who consecutively announced an upcoming collaboration with Vivienne Westwood, to be released later on this year in December. So it’s clear that the Italian designer is calling for British creativity – honouring the multi-faceted aspects of personal style.

Britain’s colour codes were also out in force – hues of red, blue, brown and white and beige clad the celebratory collection. It’s no surprise – the brand has long emitted patriotism, and in his show notes, Tisci emphasised his desire to present a journey. So of course, Burberry’s celebrated classics were helmed and reinvented. The traditional trench coat was refashioned countless times, from a satin upgrade, to a cropped cape structure, to chainmail finished hems – emitting a pure punk sensibility. As for the accessories? Tisci took a national stance, topping off both male and female looks with passport necklaces – covered in burgundy, to be noted.

Tisci’s debut SS19 show certainly increased the mountain of highlights amongst London Fashion Week so far. From Alexa Chung’s debut on-schedule show to Victoria Beckham’s 10th Anniversary collection, the Brit capital is swarming with style and celebration. With the London leg of fashion month being wrapped up today, shows in Milan are soon approaching. But can fashion month be topped following London’s fresh frontier? The bar has certainly been set high, so only time will tell. For now – Burberry festivities for a new era are calling. Cheers to Tisci!

by Faye Fearon