SO WRONG it’s right. Matty Bovan took deconstruction to a whole new level, showcasing his textile driven AW18 collection during LFW. His experimentation with textile design and fabric manipulation sets the collection apart from others, with an abundance of innovative textures making up each look. Taking and adapting traditional techniques allows us to appreciate the handiwork that has gone into creating the materials. Grandma ginghams in subdued browns and pinks juxtapose the avant-garde pattern cutting and construction.
Tailoring is a key feature throughout the collection with visible lapels, double-breasted blazers and trousers. However, Bovan has strayed from traditional tailoring to deconstruction. Using notable accents, we expect to see on tailored garments, such as lapels and buttons, Bovan strategically re-incorporates them into abstracted garments, making the connection between the garments inspiration and its final outcome. He uses the traditional fabrics to his advantage also, cutting and patching panels together so the patterns flow in different directions.
Raw edges, loose threads and fraying seams create a shabby chic aesthetic, complemented by the layers of dainty fabrics used. This conflicts against geometric and graphic prints introduced as the collection develops as well as the alien-like make up. As a busy collection that includes a vast array of clashing prints, raw edges, oversized shapes and dramatic draping, cohesion is found through colour combinations and careful placement of materials. Concluding the runway with extravagant ball gowns that were set to steal the show, they were overshadowed by the balloon head-pieces that floated above the models head.
by Todd Burns
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