After presenting a collection inspired by mental health institutions and ‘craziness’ for SS16, this season Christopher Kane delivered an eccentric collection of old lady chic, the kind that collects things and never throws anything away – a hoarder.
The inspiration was very obvious, even without reading the show notes, as models wore headgear created by milliner Stephen Jones, resembling plastic rain scarves tied around their heads, paired with mink coats, dresses and jackets with multi-coloured feather trims, sandals and purses that looked like they were made out of scraps of random fabrics. There were dresses and tops made out of stripes of ribbon and covered with floral and crochet appliques.
Kane was feeling nostalgic this season (and he’s not the only one) and returned to his childhood memories. His vision for this collection was of an outsider who makes her own world by hoarding things, a world which is, in her eyes, beautiful, hence he wanted us to see the beauty in the unusual and unexpected too. And he most definitely succeeded, peculiar as it was from the very beginning as the opening look of a camel leather coat seemingly stapled in some areas referenced a cardboard box.
The models and clothes were covered with randomly hung and pinned jewellery like a mix of trinkets and talismans important to the wearer, while trainers and heavy Chelsea boots were adorned with fur with a fastening buckle, fringe or long feathers.
Surprisingly enough, there was an erotic element in the collection reflected in silk floral slip on dresses falling off the shoulder, with a high slit or deep cleavage, transparent long lace dresses, lace hems or dresses created from stripes of leather and black lace.
The designer also introduced a new logo this season in a curled heritage typeface which was presented on large enveloping cosy jumpers.
by Sara Hesikova
Images courtesy of The Communications Store