LFW AW17: Miló Maria

CONTRADICTION is the cornerstone of Miló Maria’s design ethos. In her presentation at LFW AW17, the designer galvanised her love for paradoxes. Showcasing her third collection in an ‘80s-style office, the modern creations contrasted with the kitsch backdrop. Entering the River Room at King’s College, attendees were confronted with a sign revealing what lay ahead.

Models wearing her contemporary minimalist designs milled about, chatting to one another. Others brandished anachronistic cordless phones as they hovered over “colleagues” hammering away on obsolete computers. The set design was thorough, featuring such artefacts as Newton’s Cradles, retro Bran Flakes, and absurd paperweights- a maximalist environment for a minimalist designer.

The designer’s site says that her garments are “confident apparel that could be worn everyday”. This subdued grey jumper, which was complimented by dewy makeup and austere hair, epitomise the pragmatism referred to in this statement.

Despite the presence of low-key, luxe items, it was clearly not Dress Down Friday at Miló Maria’s makeshift office. Some of the looks were too strong to suggest day-to-day wear, suggesting the designer’s aesthetic agenda has developed)..

A powder pink voluminous collared top with exaggerated bell sleeves worn under a dusty rose, crushed velvet trouser suit fulfilled the confident criteria, but not on an everyday basis.

In a collection brimming with surprises, two stand-out pieces had unexpected strappy backs. One was an otherwise quotidian burgundy dress, pictured below, which is backless save for some strips across the back.

The second, was the other powder pink velvet outfit. The model remained seated so it was hard to tell what the complete outfit looked from the waist down. The back was easy to catch sight of, and had diaphanous ribbons straps draped languidly across the back and trailing from the shoulders.

Incidentally, ribbons and straps are the ties that bind her two disparate, but harmonious inspirations. The designer behind Miló Maria was researching Victorian costume when she veered off-piste. She ended up consolidating the concept with influences derived from fetish wear. The two things seem thoroughly contradictory , but so do cosy socks with dressy black sandals and yellow eye make up at the office . Somehow, the nascent label (which is a favourite of Lady Gaga) managed to pull it off.

by Yasmin Bilbeisi