Glass explores the northeast of England via the cosy trappings of Jesmond Dene House

Northern High – Glass explores the northeast of England via the cosy trappings of Jesmond Dene House

AFTER visiting Jesmond Dene House in Newcastle, I have to concede defeat in an on-going debate with my partner: fish and chips really do taste better up North. Especially when one is exhausted at 10 o’clock at night. After a nightmarish journey involving cattle on the line at King’s Cross – and having to instead make a lengthy alternative route via Sheffield (subsisting on pre-packaged train food in the process) we pretty much collapsed into the hotel bar and ordered the most homely, comforting thing we could find on the menu. Within moments, a dish of beer-battered cod and chips – all crunchy batter and succulent fish the size of a Wellington boot – is placed in front of us. The chef is clearly more awake than we are at this time of night. Grouchy, starving and exhausted – we practically fell into our meal like drowning men.

Food at Jesmond Dene House

It’s details like this that make Jesmond Dene the perfect retreat for frazzled city-dwellers. It’s the type of place you can easily feel at home in – thanks in no small part to the easy going, friendly team, for whom nothing seems too much trouble. (This part of the country is where you’re likely to encounter cheery British hospitality at its best). A former stately home, the décor is typically palatial as one might expect, yet cosy at the same time – all wooden furnishings, pots of greenery and unimposing earthy hues of terracotta and pebble grey. Dotted around, you’ll also find the odd quirky touch – such as wire sculptures of different dog breeds (created by local artist Gary Tiplady) while mounted on the walls there are sketches from David Haldane, cartoonist for The Times, who is also Newcastle born-and-bred.

A bedroom at Jesmond Dene House

The bedrooms are just as swoon-worthy as the rest of the hotel, with silk and velvet bedding and under-floor heated bathrooms (which on a cold winter’s night, is about as close to heaven as you can get). The UK’s only boutique hotel, Jesmond Dene is a Grade ll-listed building that was once the home of 19th century shipping magnate Sir Andrew Noble. Somewhat of a sociable fellow, he used to entertain many influential figures and royalty – former guests included Rudyard Kipling and Arthur Conan Doyle. It’s certainly fun to wander the hotel’s magnificent hallways and wonder which literary greats have gone before you.

Sadly with no spa (for the moment) some people might overlook Jesmond Dene for a relaxing weekend break. But that would be doing it a great disservice, as this hotel offers the best of both worlds – with stunning unspoilt countryside on its doorstep while the city of Newcastle itself is only a short taxi ride away. It’s worth spending a day wandering this historic city to admire the elegant neoclassical architecture, and visit the incredible Cathedral Church of St Nicholas, while art lovers can get a culture fix at The Laing Art Gallery as well as the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art.

An apartment suite Jesmond Dene House

Or you can simply do as we did and grab a coffee along the Quayside and gaze at the magnificent bridges over the Tyne – a perfect antidote to stress if ever there was one. We were dissuaded from visiting the famous Metro Centre (a commercial tourist trap) and encouraged instead to pay a trip to the palatial department store Fenwicks (the original John James Fenwick opened the first branch here on Northumberland Street in 1882), which unlike its Bond Street branch, boasts an impressive food hall where “ladies who lunch” tend to frequent. Another thing that strikes you is how friendly people generally are here – cars actually stop for you when you go to cross the road (practically unheard of within the M25).

More food at Jesmond Dene House

But if you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle, there’s plenty else to see nearby – including a number of castles to explore such as Bamburgh and Durham, as well as the magnificent Hadrian’s Wall. If you’re after a brisk walk before breakfast, the neighbouring Jesmond grounds are a serene woodland paradise. And breakfast itself is worth working up an appetite for. Guests can choose from a hearty continental array, as well as dishes featuring smoked salmon and kippers from Craster (a small fishing village on the Northumberland coast), as well as porridge with a hint of single malt whiskey (we are close to the Scottish borders after all), while their Omelette Arnold Bennett will satisfy the more literary-minded among you.

Decorations at Jesmond Dene House

Dinner is no less of an impressive affair, with dishes falling under Executive Head Chef, Michael Penaluna’s ethos of “simple done well” – which we were more than happy to get on board with. Our starters of a tangy sea bass ceviche and a colourful salad of beetroot and goat’s curd were followed up with a hearty helping of Coquet Valley chicken and truffle potatoes, while an incredibly moreish-looking black truffle linguine was devoured by my vegetarian companion. With barely any room left, dessert was the paragon of decadence – a dark chocolate sphere with salted caramel, peanuts, caramel ice cream, the taste of which would have cheered up Scrooge.

Jesmond Dene House

Hence, anyone looking for a much-needed minibreak might want to eschew the well-known hotel chains and instead venture up to Newcastle for a different kind of getaway. Whether it’s a Christmas shopping trip or a romantic countryside escape, Jesmond Dene House provides the best of both worlds. The fish and chips alone are worth the journey in itself.

by Viola Levy

Jesmond Dene House is located at Jesmond Dene Road, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE2 2EY (nearest train station – Newcastle)
The room rate for a classic room starts from £120 on a B&B basis
Tel: 0191 212 3000

Jesmond Dene House is on twitter  @jesmonddenehous