Without dwelling on Sardine’s fast food neighbour (too much), sitting in the pared-back open kitchen restaurant clad with pastel tiles and paired with light wood, one can’t help but feel smug while the beaming yellow arches reflect in its windows. Charcoal perfumes the air and gives a enticing hint of what’s to come.
Dishes are often light but flavorsome, south French in concept while touching on the finer points of the Mediterranean. Crisp salt cod fritters were grazed on while decisions made.
Violet artichokes with baby spinach and parmesan are a bright sidekick when shared the richer of the starters – white risotto and black truffle.
Sand sole was complemented with pink fir potatoes, spinach leeks and butter sauce while the vegetable ragout, salad and aioli won the show by sounding the least interesting but owning a perfect balance of flavours and depth. Given the above, white wine would have been more appropriate but a delightful Cotes de Gascogne from Domaine Séailles kept things interesting.
Chocolate, hazelnut and pear tart, rounded off the wholesome dinner along with a generous slice of truffled brie. Sardine doesn’t wow diners with a glamorous interior or fastidious plating arrangements, it wins one over with great service, flavours that grow by each mouthful and a pleasant atmosphere that whether sitting in the communal or private spaces makes you feel completely at home.
A white risotto and black truffle starter
Sardine is nearly half way through its impressive La Grande Bouffe dinner series, running throughout 2018. Anna Tobia (former head chef at the Rochelle Canteen) who’s renowned for pared-back cooking will take the helm on May 8 and Olle T Cellton (from the well-regarded Babette in Stockholm) will take over on May 22. Rounding off the first half of the year, head chef Alex Jackson will whip up a classic Bouillabaisse dinner in June.
by Stephanie Clair
Sardine, 15 Micawber Street, London, N1 7TB
Tel: 020 7490 0144
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