Haute Couture Fall 2016: Schiaparelli

PRESENTING his take on thoroughly modern Schiaparelli couture once again this season was Bertrand Guyon who unveiled 43 looks at Place Vendôme in Paris for Fall 2016. Doing exceptionally well at making more of his latest collection his, and not possessed by the spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli for the most part, Guyon respected the inimitable codes of the house with a frenzy of groovy floral prints, strong shapes that swept down the body from piercing shoulders and the usual embellished quirks, done with a lot more aplomb this time round.

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Whilst more of a trail was blazed this season, a dramatic and almost other-worldly couture puffa jacket but wasn’t anything new if compared with an almost identical opera coat created by Charles James as far back as 1938, but much more progress was made in the statement gowns that populated the collection. Surreally chic mini-dresses, glittery gowns, explosions of wildly coloured embellishment put together with technical tour de force, and then yet more glittery gowns, came aplenty but the quality each outfit possessed in its own right could not be disputed.

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A peacock like bird soaring upwards from the hem of one gown like the apparition of a phoenix from the ashes into a night’s sky teaming with fireworks was a very special creation. Simple in essence, the enchanting embellishments taken on gives it a story to tell, even a soul if you will.

One can’t escape the notion that even Schiaparelli would be in total admiration of a gown such as this, and how much it fits the bill as a modern couture creation worthy of bearing her name. Mostly thanks to Guyon’s conception of pieces like this, the future of Schiaparelli couture is appearing shockingly bright.

by Liam Feltham

Images courtesy of Schiaparelli

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