IN Soho it’s hard to move for newly launched casual-dining ventures, with London’s culinary entrepreneurs rapidly moving us away from stuffy, bright-lit rooms towards bustling, vibey spaces serving up street-inspired food and a relaxed approach to dining. And among central London’s best such offerings is Suvlaki, which made its debut last year and has just introduced a vibrant new menu for spring.
Suvlaki in Soho, London
The brainchild of entrepreneur Yannis Theodorakakos who consulted with Greek chef Elias Mamalakis and the experienced restaurateur Alfred Prasad, Suvlaki’s midnight-blue walls come scrawled with graffiti, playing off against low lighting and a 1950s jazz soundtrack to provide an instantly familiar and informal space. As the name suggests, grilled Greek cuisine features heavily and with the kitchen positioned first and foremost as you walk into the cosy 34-seat space, the chefs – aka the “guerilla grillers” – are clearly the stars of the show.
The interior at Suvlaki
But beyond the ubiquitous souvlaki – itself substantially apportioned and paprika-spiked – comes a punchy menu replete with authentic Greek flavours. Prasad and Mamalakis have added moussaka, skewers and fish dishes to an already popular menu, supplemented with fragrant sides including fava-bean dip and wild-boar sausage while vegetarian options including the mastelo cheese skewers and chickpea salads are equally satisfying.
Homemade desserts including mastiha ice cream and Greek honey-infused cheesecake make more than worthy ways to end the evening for those still with an appetite. Quickly filling up as the grills get firing, Suvlaki is a lesson in hearty yet nuanced Greek cuisine and with the new menu additions increasing its range, it remains on course to become a firm favourite within London’s fast-moving dining scene.
By Ben Olsen
Suvlaki, 21 Bateman Street, Soho, London W1D 3AL