Paris Fashion Week Highlights - Day 6

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Karl Lagerfeld

Sleek legs dipped in patent black, streamlined silhouettes, exquisitely
detailed piping, beading and tailoring, towering hair, all shone and dazzled under
the catwalk lights of Karl Lagerfeld’s Autumn Winter 10 collection. The fashion
icon showcased a modern woman with influences of science fiction (a common
thread throughout many designers recent collections), "Modern
is for today". However, Lagerfeld showcases these modern influences in a
way that is illustrative of his connection with the past, present and future, merging
classic shapes, techniques and qualities with futuristic angular shapes, silhouettes
and materials. This is something we have come to expect from the man that works
within the conventions and ideals of the classic Chanel brand yet re-invents
the aesthetics to appeal to a contemporary, modern culture. 

The Autumn/Winter collection kept within a subdued pallet
ranging from the darkest patent blacks to deep chocolate browns with a dash of
silver, red and white breaking up the pallet and heightening the futuristic
qualities of the garments.

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan, the man that taught us to look very
differently at an ordinary coffee table, does not back away from drama. With his recent collection he has chosen to take us on a different adventure, through the design of his clothing. The collection takes a departure from his
earlier conceptual wear and shows his garments wearability through an
imaginary trip around America. We start in a city uniform period of New York evidently
commenting on the street style through choice pieces, hoodies (made
sophisticated through the use of leather), sneakers combined with oversized
blazers and suiting. Next the garments took influence from rural areas of
America, in particular Amish land, with a procession of brightly coloured
embroidery and a plumage of ruffles. Other influences were literally carried
through the garments, evident through leather cowboy hats, capes illustrative of
the south as well as thigh-high slashed ball gowns (accessorised with
typographic glasses) which are reminiscent of the American cultural phenomenon,
beauty pageants. All these significant attributes where clearly poignant and
were highlighted through audible car sounds and snatches of sound bites from
weather reports, and radio station music.

Although the many garments fit with an iconic characteristic
formulated within American culture, it is very easy to see the wearability of
Chalayan’s garments without the setting. Choice pieces include leather hoods,
embroidered jackets, oversized blazers, cosmic splattered dresses and for the
adventurer in you, a pair of sheepskin covered binoculars.

Sonia Rykiel

Refreshing bright smiles brought the catwalk to life for
Sonia Rykiel and played right into the style of her youthful collection that
sparked an essence of fun into every garment that drifted down the catwalk. The
collection takes influence from vintage styles and menswear tailoring, yet
breathes new life into often regimented styles through the use of oversized
knits, pastel colours (an unusual sight for Autumn/Winter that has been
making a repeat performance recently), with accessories such as large
safety-pins, white doll-like legs, and topped off with a large pom-pom
headpiece. The collection also makes use of the signature Rykiel stripes that
hold relevance to her recent H&M line, bridging the line between high and
fast fashion as well as appealing to her younger consumers. The playful
approach to this collection erupted in a glorious finale of multiple models
holding hands with one another while gleefully parading in ostrich feather tanks,
tunics and coats.

John Galliano

John
Galliano sent a costume drama extravaganza down the runway with a blast
of glitter, which was then concluded with a triumphant firework display

 A memorable
show is what is implied when attending a Galliano show. He creates an
extravagant impact of luxury and theatre that rides close to the edge of a
luxury pantomime. Once again he embodies these attributes within his
Autumn/Winter 10 collection. Combining inspiration from cultural costumes and
period dressing, Galliano takes influence from ‘a tribe of adventuring nomads’
in a similar way to his previous collection that drew attributes from folkloric
princesses. His recent take drew out a softer element in a reverse to our
expectations between seasonal dressing (his S/S10 focusing on a darker pallet
than recent collections) and with billowing silhouettes and longer lengths than
previous. Galliano takes attributes of traditional dress and adds drama by
exaggerating form and textures, layering contrasting lengths, fabric and styles
to create a whole new silhouette that sits between the present and the past.

The collection was highly accessorised by large overbearing
soft top hats, (patent black) liquorice style bows, feather crowns and yak fur,
once again epitomizing the theatre of John Galliano.

Givenchy

Unusual elements sparked the inspiration behind Givenchy’s
Autumn/Winter 10 collection. "I was thinking of the ski world and the scuba
world," said Riccardo Tisci, "and the colours of the Bauhaus." All these elements can be seen throughout the collection, carried off
with precision and subtle detailing that does not lead to an art collecting
sports enthusiast. For instance the influence of scuba diving is evident in the
stripping back of clothing, the zipping down of a pair of trousers with the
turn down of material, or the choice of body con fabrics that reflect the light
while still absorbing the intensity creating block shapes within the garments. The
tailoring is sharp yet edgy, the cut is sexy and often skin tight emphasized
through high neck bound throats, hints of lace and sheer panelling. The
collections pallet focuses on black, barely-there nudes, bright white and a
highly charged flash of scarlet red (often only appearing subtly within
patterns or creating a daring statement within a monotone look).

All Images: Style.com

Edited by Mini Bear - 08 May 2010 at 8:11pm

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version
RebeccaHawkes Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Glasssmith Joined: 27 Jan 2010 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11	Quote Reply Topic: Paris Fashion Week Highlights - Day 6 Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 8:39pm
	Karl Lagerfeld Sleek legs dipped in patent black, streamlined silhouettes, exquisitely detailed piping, beading and tailoring, towering hair, all shone and dazzled under the catwalk lights of Karl Lagerfeld’s Autumn Winter 10 collection. The fashion icon showcased a modern woman with influences of science fiction (a common thread throughout many designers recent collections), "Modern is for today". However, Lagerfeld showcases these modern influences in a way that is illustrative of his connection with the past, present and future, merging classic shapes, techniques and qualities with futuristic angular shapes, silhouettes and materials. This is something we have come to expect from the man that works within the conventions and ideals of the classic Chanel brand yet re-invents the aesthetics to appeal to a contemporary, modern culture. The Autumn/Winter collection kept within a subdued pallet ranging from the darkest patent blacks to deep chocolate browns with a dash of silver, red and white breaking up the pallet and heightening the futuristic qualities of the garments. Hussein Chalayan Hussein Chalayan, the man that taught us to look very differently at an ordinary coffee table, does not back away from drama. With his recent collection he has chosen to take us on a different adventure, through the design of his clothing. The collection takes a departure from his earlier conceptual wear and shows his garments wearability through an imaginary trip around America. We start in a city uniform period of New York evidently commenting on the street style through choice pieces, hoodies (made sophisticated through the use of leather), sneakers combined with oversized blazers and suiting. Next the garments took influence from rural areas of America, in particular Amish land, with a procession of brightly coloured embroidery and a plumage of ruffles. Other influences were literally carried through the garments, evident through leather cowboy hats, capes illustrative of the south as well as thigh-high slashed ball gowns (accessorised with typographic glasses) which are reminiscent of the American cultural phenomenon, beauty pageants. All these significant attributes where clearly poignant and were highlighted through audible car sounds and snatches of sound bites from weather reports, and radio station music. Although the many garments fit with an iconic characteristic formulated within American culture, it is very easy to see the wearability of Chalayan’s garments without the setting. Choice pieces include leather hoods, embroidered jackets, oversized blazers, cosmic splattered dresses and for the adventurer in you, a pair of sheepskin covered binoculars. Sonia Rykiel Refreshing bright smiles brought the catwalk to life for Sonia Rykiel and played right into the style of her youthful collection that sparked an essence of fun into every garment that drifted down the catwalk. The collection takes influence from vintage styles and menswear tailoring, yet breathes new life into often regimented styles through the use of oversized knits, pastel colours (an unusual sight for Autumn/Winter that has been making a repeat performance recently), with accessories such as large safety-pins, white doll-like legs, and topped off with a large pom-pom headpiece. The collection also makes use of the signature Rykiel stripes that hold relevance to her recent H&M line, bridging the line between high and fast fashion as well as appealing to her younger consumers. The playful approach to this collection erupted in a glorious finale of multiple models holding hands with one another while gleefully parading in ostrich feather tanks, tunics and coats. John Galliano John Galliano sent a costume drama extravaganza down the runway with a blast of glitter, which was then concluded with a triumphant firework display A memorable show is what is implied when attending a Galliano show. He creates an extravagant impact of luxury and theatre that rides close to the edge of a luxury pantomime. Once again he embodies these attributes within his Autumn/Winter 10 collection. Combining inspiration from cultural costumes and period dressing, Galliano takes influence from ‘a tribe of adventuring nomads’ in a similar way to his previous collection that drew attributes from folkloric princesses. His recent take drew out a softer element in a reverse to our expectations between seasonal dressing (his S/S10 focusing on a darker pallet than recent collections) and with billowing silhouettes and longer lengths than previous. Galliano takes attributes of traditional dress and adds drama by exaggerating form and textures, layering contrasting lengths, fabric and styles to create a whole new silhouette that sits between the present and the past. The collection was highly accessorised by large overbearing soft top hats, (patent black) liquorice style bows, feather crowns and yak fur, once again epitomizing the theatre of John Galliano. Givenchy Unusual elements sparked the inspiration behind Givenchy’s Autumn/Winter 10 collection. "I was thinking of the ski world and the scuba world," said Riccardo Tisci, "and the colours of the Bauhaus." All these elements can be seen throughout the collection, carried off with precision and subtle detailing that does not lead to an art collecting sports enthusiast. For instance the influence of scuba diving is evident in the stripping back of clothing, the zipping down of a pair of trousers with the turn down of material, or the choice of body con fabrics that reflect the light while still absorbing the intensity creating block shapes within the garments. The tailoring is sharp yet edgy, the cut is sexy and often skin tight emphasized through high neck bound throats, hints of lace and sheer panelling. The collections pallet focuses on black, barely-there nudes, bright white and a highly charged flash of scarlet red (often only appearing subtly within patterns or creating a daring statement within a monotone look). All Images: Style.com Edited by Mini Bear - 08 May 2010 at 8:11pm