By Milly Edgerley
If there is one thing you can say about Christopher Bailey, itâs that he knows how women want to dress. And if the clothes werenât proof enough a cursory glance of the front row at this London Fashion Weekâs RTW show (that counted ClĂ©mence PoĂ©sy, Rosie Huntington- Whitely, Eddie Redmayne and Alexa Chung amongst its number) is indicative of the autonomy Bailey enjoys as the âgo toâ for high-end fashion that is always a step ahead.
As ever for the British luxury label, outerwear was a major focus of the show opening with a reimagining of the classic trench coat in a âTown meets Fieldâ aesthetic where the classic city-girl trench was transformed with tweed side panels and herringbone bellows pockets into a more rural offering for Autumn/Winter. Elsewhere in the collection outerwear was impeccably constructed giving effortlessly elegant outlines, cinched at the waist with oversized pockets and exaggerated lower proportions to create an hourglass effect.
This âTown meets Fieldâ aesthetic continued as striped skirts paired with cropped tweed jackets, classic pencil skirts in various shades of olive velvet teamed with skinny bombers and naively sketched animal- motif knitwear celebrated British foibles in an eclectic mix of town and country fabrics.
As far as silhouettes were concerned it was all about the waist for Bailey this season as cinched belts with kitsch bow and fox-head detailing accentuated the variety of peplums on display.
Central spiral ruffles on horsewoman skirts and full striped skirts emphasised this feminine shape further. Accessories served to toughed things up with studded gloves and lace-up stiletto boots adding an element of âtownâ to the whimsy of Baileyâs âFieldâ.
Eveningwear translated into outerwear in a stunning quilted dress-coat worn by Cara Delevigne was the epitome of luxurious femininity (note the sweet bow belt) with an urban edge rendering it a standout of the collection.
In striking the perfect balance between contemporary and classic, sweet femininity and hard urban edge, Bailey has created a collection that is sure to be snapped up by any member of his front row. A triumph.
As Burberry Prorsum Spring Summer 2011 Fashion Show ended up in the world's "number one fashion Holy Land" - London, fashion watchers might be disappointed this time.
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