There was more than a hint of the Chanel effect evident in the Stefania BorrĂĄs show. The blushing milk maid of the Parisian houseâs SS10 collection was back, with a soft halo fuzz surrounding her extra long plaited hair and her feet shod again in heeled clogs. But BorrĂĄs wove an additional equestrian theme through her clothes with the use of pony skins, black leather riding boots and jewellery made from horse girdles, giving her milk maid a harder edge. The strange blood spattered bullet hole pattern that worked its way onto simple silk shift dresses, woollen tights, body suits and skinny jodhpurs also removed any last trace of whimsy from this collection.
Sometimes fashion weeks need a shake up; a sudden jolt to the jaded fashion journalistâs system to make her sit up and take notice. Opening her collection with a rockabilly waitress languidly puffing on a cigarette to the tune of Pharaoh Monchâs,âF*ck Youâ, Krizia Robustella aimed to do just that. Long waistcoats in candy stripe colours, arcade jackpot print suits and shiny frilled capes all made an appearance â and that was just on the boys. Sportswear influences also crept in, with jogging bottoms paired with parkas and anoraks. Granted, it wasnât the most cohesive collection - some pieces were so oddly put together it is a wonder why they were included at all - but it was fun. Even the models were laughing by the finale, which saw them shooting toy guns at the photographers scrum. For a new young designer, thatâs a pretty amazing feat.
This collection, a booming voice told us, was âLesson 2: Darts â The Beginning of Volumeâ. Not hard to see what the focus would be here, then. Victor Cardona MarquĂ©s and Israel Frutos Bonache sent models down the runway with poker-straight hair covering one eye, a sleek contrast to the voluminous folds protruding from their clothes. Using ribbed wool bodysuits in black, grey and aquamarine green as the foundation, layers were then added â seamless masculine felt blazers, collarless leather boleros, high-waisted wool pencil skirts and silk shift dresses, which all included the crucial dart detailing. Thin glistening silver chains hung down the back of the jackets - a superfluous feature in an otherwise clean silhouette.
All images courtesy of 080 Barcelona Fashion
Edited by Mini Bear - 29 Jan 2010 at 12:51am
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