Ann Demeulemeester â
The latest collection from Ann Demeulemeester was music to everyone's ears as punk rock singer Patti Smith was the apparent inspiration for her latest offering.
A limited pallet of stark black, crisp white and soft camel was lifted by the glistening, hard silverware draped around the models waist. The former trend for chunky, abundant chains and charms hanging around the neck seems to have switched its function, from necklace to belt.
Relaxed suits, with slim legged trousers yet gathered high at the waist, formed the basis for twenty-nine moody, nouveaux punk looks. Paired with these ensembles were flowing, draped overcoats and Sherlock Holmes type capes which were almost lost behind hefty furs or abundant feather collars and boas.
Beautifully layered, this relaxed yet emotive collection also saw a smattering of PVC jackets and coats, leather gloves, and this seasons must have, the military boot.
Dior Homme â
If there was any doubt that bigger is better, Dior Homme has confirmed that the Decade of Skinny is well and truly over.
Kris Van Assche's latest outing as designer-in-chief has left guys the world over left without any choice but to eat some more. No longer is the cut of the cloth so close, as overcoats were of, almost, oversized proportions as they cascaded over the models slender frames.
Tailoring featured heavily, yet the street trend for 'cool' rolled up trousers has finally tricked-up to the catwalk as Van Assche cut the length significantly shorter.
A traditionally muted pallet for Dior Homme, of black, white and grey, was lifted by lighter shades of oatmeal and hearty aubergine. Accessories lacked presence unlike previous seasons, however the labels signature skinny tie made a notable appearance. Ignoring the military footwear theme, it seems Van Assche has instated the laced ankle boot his shoe of choice for this season.
An English Man in Paris was the ideology behind Dunhill's latest collection, with uber-trendy designer Kim Jones at the helm. Keen to explore the traditional foundations of Alfred Dunhill, Jones has kept the old school spirit alive with a very dapper aesthetic.
Slim waisted, wool jackets matched with sleek trousers, however tucked into thick wool socks, were paired with Liberty-style printed shirts with an Edwardian collar. Smart black tuxedos with crests, and silk bow ties, added some extra English glamour to this exceptionally traditional collection that was viewed through a modern lens.
Venturing into the realms of British exploration, yellow-laced mountain boots and brown military boots added to the sense of adventure, bomber-style jackets, padded and belted heavy wool coats formed the basis for outerwear.
Unlike previous seasons, luggage and accessories were scarce yet what was seen were oversized, square holdalls, a black crock backpack and some orange mountaineering equipment â including a most British of accessory; the hip-flask.
All Words by Dan Hasby-Oliver.
All Images from www.style.com
Edited by Mini Bear - 24 Jan 2010 at 1:32pm
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