glass magazine || reporting DHO

22/01/2010 15:51:48

Louis Vuitton –

'Bleisure' – a fusion of business and leisure – was the inspiration for Paul Helbers, studio director for Louis Vuitton, and Marc Jacobs who presented a mix of casual and formal clothing that referenced Vienna's early 20^th century community of artists.

With luxurious leather coats, winter wools and plush tweeds, the collection was constructed around layered tailoring, in graphite, espresso, black and the odd splash of neon yellow.

Slim waisted, crisp white shirts formed the basis for an understated yet masculine aesthetic that accentuated the sleek tweed jackets and slim wool trousers tucked into thick wool socks. Who ever said the skinny leg was dead on men did not foresee this refined bohemian aesthetic.

Bespectacled models paraded the catwalk, displaying military inspired luggage with a dream-like decoration of landscapes, clouds and rustic country scenes, hand painted by German watercolour artist Christian Schoeler. With the traditional monogram taking a back seat this season, other accessories included spacious satchels and holdalls, high military boots and patent leather shoes with metallic soles.

Jean Paul Gaultier –

Bruised and bashed was the mantra for Jean Paul Gaultier as he presented a boxing inspired collection that promised to be, 'The greatest bout of all time'.

With skin-tight jersey sweat pants, satin shorts, thick woollen knits and leather jackets, the collection also showed off Gaultier's technical abilities with sharp tailored suits and slim pinstripe trousers. Yet it was the grey marl double-breasted suit with sequinned hood that was the heavy-weight champion of this theatrical show.

Red, black and white boxing boots and patent leather shoes took centre ring for accessories that were perfectly understated to accentuate the satin piped detail on military-inspired short jackets and leather-panel detailed wool coats.

A mixed pallet of black, white, army green and soft caramels worked perfectly to present this collection in a more wearable light. Patterned t-shirts, depicting bare muscles, lifted the mood in what appears to be a serious season, yet the real test of the industries humour will be to see how this trend translates to the high street.

Dries Van Noten –

Continental country gentleman seemed to be the suave inspiration for Dries Van Noten as a typically Anglo look influenced his latest offering.

Sharp tailoring, relaxed boating jackets and belted trench coats dominated the collection that would not go amiss at this summers Henley Regatta. A predominately light navy, camel and soft grey pallet was muted by the loud multicolour stripes emblazoned on tailored shirts, slim trousers and accessories.

Simple black and light brown brogues worked well, particularly with the drop-crotch long johns that provided a sporty aesthetic to what could have been a stuffy, old school collection.

Puffa waistcoats, shooting jackets and padded body warmers all had their own little twist that brought them up-to-date, and may outshine the Barbour this autumn.

Shying away from the military trend that was apparent today, Dries Van Noten has produced a strong collection that is fun and relaxed which gives fresh hopes to us all for the year ahead.