By Milly Edgerley

It seems hard to imagine that Phoebe Philo could present a Pre-Fall Collection more dynamic, fresh and innovative than her offering for Spring/Summer for Céline, yet she has carried it off with aplomb. As a brand Céline has become synonymous with visionary outerwear, decisive colour palettes and eclectic use of textile that combine to embody innate power combined with intrinsic femininity.

The emphasis in this collection is on Philo’s art for playing with shape and cut, to create collections that are so refreshingly new whilst still capturing the essence of the female form. The peplum, introduced in her Spring/Summer line, is back in a powerful context injecting femininity into the skilfully cut business suits.

In other areas of the collection shapes have taken a turn for the exaggerated with rounded couture shapes playing beautifully with the voluminous proportions of chiffon panelled trousers.  The collection showcases a variety of fits and cuts with both high and drop waists featuring in stiff t-shirt dresses and capacious jumpsuits.

For all the voluminous trouser cuts, Philo did not disappoint the eager subscribers to her signature cigarette pants by providing a pair of immaculately tapered, colour-blocked trousers in a demure colour palette of champagne in the front and matte white in the back. Paired with an equally well constructed shirt the look created was one of effortless elegance.

Accessories did not take a back seat in this collection. The spacious shopper bags panelled in fur and oversized clutches are certain to be coveted items for autumn whilst the fur neck stoles added an element of decadence to the otherwise minimalist lines of Philo’s elegant jumpsuits.

Perhaps what kept this collection so unapologetically fresh was its spontaneous injection of print, colour and textile. The leather swatches that toughened up the softly shaped brocade coat, the mesmerising print of a long-sleeved, drop-waist dress teamed with leather 60’s style boots, the leather belt buckle detailing on well cut shift dresses and a colour blocked turtle-neck with extended ribbed front all came together to create a fashion -forward capsule wardrobe for the fall.

 Stand-out pieces of the collection were hard to extrapolate however mention must go to the piebald fur coat complimented perfectly by the graphic print underneath and the leather jumpsuit with pussy-bow neck detail so intrinsically innovative in their execution.

A highly relevant collection that will surely out-exist its season – a triumph. 

This year, the collection is the essence of young. The models radiate a sassy, rock-chick charm in a layered mix of color and print with cut smock dresses over frilly skirts, curvy dresses in floral velvet, handkerchief-hems on trapeze-line smocks, crystal-encrusted tunics with baggy trousers tucked into boots, long, bedecked with lace bibs, and necklaces, embossed and cut-out leather jackets with washed georgette dresses, all styled, layered and accessorized with madcap, magpie charm and enthusiasm.