Christian Dior

In a brisk canter along Galliano’s Eighteenth century byway, Dior’s Ready-to-Wear collection was a continuation from daywear pieces presented in his Couture show in January. Emerging cloaked in a supple leather highwayman’s cape to the note of horse patter, the hint towards equestrian pursuits was unabashed, as out poured riding jackets, jodhpurs and redingote shapes with a citified subversion. Nestled under fur-frilled jackets, ruffled chiffon babydoll dresses were a romantic chasm from which thigh-high boots cascaded from beneath. Delicate ruffles were an enticing feminine undercurrent as the underwear as outerwear trend infiltrated the country amble, which culminated in diaphanous floor length eveningwear. Marrying this with the refined tailoring, the burnt red and chocolate palette was suffused by ivory, pastels and an infusion of black.

Lanvin

A cultural collision of Alber Elbaz’s African heritage and current appointment as UN ambassador, alongside his reputation for structured, clean silhouettes resulted in a fusion of constructed tailoring for the urban woman with an African tribal inference.  With a minimalist mantra, constructed sleeves also seen at Calvin Klein created irregular placement of volume centred around the shoulders, and tapering at the thigh. As the collection unfolded, constructed one-shoulder dresses and cinched-waist A-line jackets became heavily accessorised, a necklace here, a belt there, a bag, a fur sleeve. Draped toga shapes emerged from under pleated skirts and boxy jackets, juxtaposing the relaxed jersey with the constructed shapes.  Also worth a mention is the intricate ostrich and marabou feather fringing that navigated the chest like a breast plate, and was accompanied by tribal wooden and metal jewellery.

Vivienne Westwood

Always a vehicle for a political message, Vivienne Westwood’s mainline show wouldn’t have been the same devoid of punk-based political messages that her brand has formed its ancestry upon. As much a lesson in styling as a catwalk show, a bricolage of slung blankets, layered skirts and historical references resulted in happenstance fashion.  â€˜Stop Climate Change’ was the single slogan emblazoned across a purple jersey, jutting out from behind an oversized ruby red jacket and tucked into a puffball binbag-esque skirt. Insubordinance reigned supreme as look after look steered away from a cohesive aesthetic; a camel trouser suit with construction set askew, boxer shorts tucked into tights and topped with a faux-crown, a dishevelled faux fur coat: but each look had the draped indifference of a self-assured brand and founder who embraces a no-knickers nonchalance.

All images from here.