Balenciaga

Formidably one of the most anticipated collections at Paris Fashion Week, Nicolas Ghesquière has done it again. In keeping with Monsieur Cristobal Balenciaga's innovative cutting methods, that honed such historical pieces as the balloon dress, Ghesquière adopted 21st Century methods to create intricate forward thinking pieces. Utilising machine-perforated fabrics guised to look like delicate lace dresses and cashmere dimpled to look like industrial foam and fur shaved into quilting, you would be foolish to think that this looked like any run-of-the-mill Autumn/Winter collection. Transient flashes of flame orange and aqua gave a fleeting hint of an Indian summer, whilst pale mustards, nude, and white offered breaths of crisp sunny winter mornings, however the darker and colder elements of the anticipated season came through in structured cigarette pants, and architecturally cut square collars protruding from the neck offering a decidedly geometric theme to the collection. Pewter quilted ensembles kept a space age feel as did the odd silhouettes making the models torsos appear barrel-like, made possible with a generous helping of fur, but what shone through in this collection was the deliberate reference to the industrial – perhaps a high fashion interpretation of the recyclable fabrics being used by ethical labels, this was supported by the newsprint fabrics that were swiftly turned into a-line cut tops, and skirt ensembles utilising once again complex cutting methods.

Balmain

A somewhat vulgar, yet wearable collection is what Christophe Decarnin chose to offer at Paris Fashion Week. Obvious references to baroque fleur-de-lis motifs and other 17^th Century hooks was evident, but that ever so popular fabric for Autumn/Winter 2010 burst its way out again in full force, Gold brocade is loud and proud and is definitely shining through in all it’s grotesque glory for the upcoming season. Some intricate teaming was found in this collection with cut away jackets atop sheer breast bearing blouses, tapered trousers and neck ties were flying the flag for wearability, but full-length metallic thigh bearing gowns slashed right down to the waist hosted that trademark Balmain sex appeal, with its rock n’ roll edge stomping out in lace up heeled boots.  

Rick Owens

Finally, some Class A high drama, dark humoured Autumn/Winter apparel from none other than his conceptual self Rick Owens. Describing the new-age-fembot warriors he presented on the runway as "Glamorous nuns, with inner discipline"  which sort of makes sense of his latest offering. A-symmetric cuts and zig-zag patterned legs transformed the female form into something powerful, sinister and not to be taken lightly. The colour palette stayed in the dark realms of grey, and black with the occasional dash of dusty gold and a fleeting pass of tangerine, almost evoking a tribal reference, as did the ruffles of jersey fabric formed into an angular cascade from the pelvis that poked out from under haphazardly cut coats. Owens experimental approach to textiles was evident, with puffed quilt like fabric being thrown on in robe-like fashion once again combining the urban with the tribal. This was certainly a strong collection which sends out a unique look for Autumn/Winter.  

All images from Style.com