Giles

Giles' collection this season takes a new sophisticated twist, taking inspiration from the lady-like styles of the '60s and mixing it with a sci-fi interest. The catwalk may have begun with pieces reminiscent of a previous decade but this is only the beginning, as the garments gliding down the catwalk slowly un-age the models. Starting with A-line skirts, corsets and leather-boned shoulder pads, the show quickly turns to flowing rose petal cocktail gowns accompanied by caricature bags (in the shape of a Gonk and a Gremlin) designed by Katie Hillier and elaborate wire "cloud" headdresses by Stephen Jones. These statement pieces added the sense of tongue in cheek attitude we have come to love from the man that once indulged our childhood lusts with last season’s dinosaur handbags (S/S 10).

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh is not one to stay within the boundaries; he continually pushes our perceptions of reality, creating garments for super human goddesses and gods. This season is no different. The collection welcomes us to a world of leather clad, geometric cut garments that strike the drama that Pugh is known for, however the collection also develops a softer edge with draped chiffon and fine chains layered upon the body to create a modern day 1920s power dresser. Throughout the pallet stays within the black spectrum, with an odd glimpse of grey. This once again will be no surprise to Pugh fans, however the block use of monotone places emphasis on the dynamics of the garment's cut and accentuates the structure, which is key.

Dries Van Noten

A fifty four piece collection where every look is wearable to many occasions is not an easy feat but Dries Van Noten has created just that. The collection is a stylists’ dream combining the amalgamation of textures, print, classic menswear pieces, metallic, sophisticated tailoring topped off with an array of accessories. Prints intentionally clash (between scarves and dresses), shoes are made to a thick degree that they almost become wedges and what seems to be traditional combat camouflage has been transformed to illustrate dusk flowers illuminated with hints of gold. This collection on paper seems unusual and undesirable however the subtleties and fabric choices that are employed leave us with an artist’s pallet of choice that is unexpected and very beautiful.

Anne Valérie Hash

Anne Valérie Hash’s Autumn/Winter 10 collection had simple tailored garments at the heart, yet the beauty of the garments lie in Hash’s unusual choice of fabrics. Soft jerseys featured throughout and were often constructed within looks with many layers. In contrast to this, many garments from the collection left very little to the imagination, made (if not entirely then partially) from organza in jewel-like colours. The design of cropped trousers with a longer leg layered in organza underneath was also an interesting fashion that featured throughout.

All Images: Style.com

Edited by Mini Bear - 08 May 2010 at 8:27pm