
Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 12 May 2011 at 5:56pm
Technological advances have been at the forefront of this years fashion week, with design houses putting creative thought to how their viewers perceive the brand as much as the clothes they send down the catwalk. Dolce & Gabbana were no different in this respect. Before the show, guests were invited to leave comments on the companies website. These comments were later screened during the show to accompany live filming of backstage, front row and the outside of the theatre. The vision took on a theme of an all seeing eye, making not only a spectacle of the clothes but the celebrity guests, the work put in behind the catwalk stage and all importantly what guest's felt about the show. Although an interesting advance it led to more attention upon the screens then garments and a lack of surprise when the finale approached.
The clothes shown had an air of androgyny yet with the gender divide made distinctly clear, not only through the clothes however but through the styling of the models. Hair was coiffed to quiffs and sideburns and each were donned with a pork pie hat, gracing the collection with the Madonna era. The suit's created for the "males" shifted from 1940s sensibilities right through to mods, rockers and punks, as well as taking in the era of rock glamour when glitter made an appearance later in the collection. The "females" however took on prints. A star print ran throughout and was manipulated from monochrome, to bursting into glitter, becoming bejewelled and making an appearance in neon. Lace, musical notes and the designers favourite print, animal also made an appearance. Bum bags made a return adding a flirty edge, as clip purses to full on satchels were mounted to models hips. The finale saw all model's reappear on the catwalk and the "male" counterpoints removed their jackets. Overall the show saw the duo embrace technology, yet the collection firmly had roots in the past.



Missoni
As Margherita Missoni describes the latest Missoni collection as 'a fairytale' we see the obvious connotations. Missoni this season takes on a soft pallet of pastel hues and we see them fuse out from candyfloss pinks, to powdered blues, to coral and lilac in a diffused sense of watercolour. Pre-adolescent colours have been applied masterfully but often in a way that deploys a sense of child-like playfulness. The Missoni stripes still make an appearance however this season they appear to be drawn onto fabric with a crayon, and then only to have a glass of paint dipped water splashed across them. Artist Tiara Langdon contributed to the prints creating naive drawings that now appear painted upon garments and embroidered across gowns. Although these element remain very feminine, elements of menswear ground the collection giving it a beatnik style through soft vest top and matching ensembles that reference suiting. Knit's are what Missoni do best and there is no lack of them in this fairytale. Jumpers become playful as arm-like sections of knit hug the body through weave, and fine almost translucent whispers of vest tops appear on top of floor sweeping gowns. This sophisticated collection may be grounded in a fairytale, but you may need to wake us up to read it first, as we are very much still dreaming.



Versus
This seasons Versus collection was off to a noir classical beginning yet a hint of glitter on the models heel was just a sign of what was to come. The collection looked to the angular lines of corsetry, revealing panels and structuring a sultry silhouette that echoed the geometry of architecture. The stage was set, with a catwalk designed in the shape of a triangle, and this played out further as the tessellating shape spread across the designs. These were the strengths of the collection, aiding in creating a fierce female, with seductive curves and later a sense of play. As the collection developed from matt charcoal to patent leather, glitter seeped in starting from models toe until it reached her neck. Christopher Kane described it as a 'glitter firework' as fine detailing appeared like out of the night sky.



Edited by Mini Bear - 01 Mar 2011 at 12:20pm
For Autumn/Winter 11 Christopher Kane once again decided upon an unusual fabric choice. Teetering upon a tightrope of bad taste, we have previously seen the designer combat neon lace and embroidered leather, and for this collection Kane once again throws caution into the wind as he fearlessly took to plastics filled with coloured liquid, as well as crochet. An unusual combination and one that no other designer other than Kane would muster. Crocheted fabrics, resembling throws from the seventies, were wrapped around models creating an unexpected function; a peephole of flesh that when combined with leather jackets produced a flirtatious ensemble. Still reveling with leather from previous season's A/W's look combined a crochet print and added a youthful edge to the aged connotation. The most stand out element of this collection, however, was the use of a material created for the show. Inspired by gel filled pencil cases of his and his sister, Tammy's (a collaborator on this collection) childhood, the design duo implemented clear plastic with a coloured gel throughout, creating wavy lines and a unique element to the designs. Used a little these elements cut sleek necklines and when used extensively illustrated the full unique capabilities of the material, to distort blocks of colour in a similar way to a watercolour. Innovative and unique, it is these unexpected elements of a Christopher Kane show that make us lust for the next creation as we ask ourselves, what comes next?


\Burberry Prorsum
Inspired by the great style icon, Jean Shrimpton, Bailey took inspiration from the brands early sixties archive to recreate what he believes she may have worn today. With the technological innovation of the show however if she was to do so she could of done with the click of a mouse as Burberry's collection was screened worldwide live and online purchases were made available as soon as the model took her first steps. It is interesting to see the aspects of traditional brand identity merge with the impact of technological and commercial attitudes. Christopher Bailey however has been doing this with Burberry for years taking the brand to new strengths without removing it from it's heritage. With this innovation there is no difference.
A sea of coats was Christopher Bailey's vision for Autumn/Winter 11. We saw a profusion of them, ranging from the brights of satsuma orange, cerulean and bright reds all the way to virginal whites. Bailey played with the proportions as well adding cropped caplets, belted puff jackets and the traditional trench with a fastening that appeared as if a cross between military and a duffel. The sixties influence created a strikingly English aesthetic with a bright to warm the dreariest of London weather.



Giles
With ballet buns to rival The Black Swan and prim and proper red lips and high necked collars you would begin to think that the Giles girl had turned all sugar coated. Yet the Giles girl this season was no good girl. Dressed with both the opera and the fetish shop in mind, Giles' Autumn/Winter collection sprouts implosions of hair-like fur from skating skirts, breasts and necklines, corsets breasts with bondage tape leather and gives a quick nudge and a wink with sheer detailing. Restraining to traditional decadence, the collection works Pre-Raphaelite prints into luxurious gathered gowns as red haired maiden's make subtle appearances on shirts. With these elements the collection ranges from subtle flirting and suitable gala event cocktail material to daring exhibitor, that cannot wait to rebel. For this season Giles let's his customer decide, do nice girls always finish last?



All Images from Style.com
Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 22 Feb 2011 at 8:18pm
As David Bowie's 'China Girl' played on and the first model walked down the catwalk it was clear to see that Ralph Lauren was taken us on an 'Orient Express' trip with this years Autumn/ Winter collection. As a brand that is developing flagship stores worldwide with it's sights set on Shanghai and Beijing, it is clear to see where this collections inspirations lie. The Ralph Lauren collection presented us with a lacquered polish vision where every model took on a stance of sleek perfection. The hue stayed predominately in monochrome with pops of traditionalist crimson and jade making brief appearances upon the models lips and through the embellishments on accessories. Taking inspiration from a culture whereby tradition has created a 'man's world, this collection borrows from it's Y chromosome counterpoints in the form of mannish tailoring highlighted in boxy suiting. The collection later falls through to luxurious silk cocktail dresses with oriental detailing in the form of high necked collars and diagonal side fastenings. Undoubtedly for this season Ralph Lauren's woman wears the trousers, and they wear them very, very well.



Calvin Klein
When you think of Calvin Klein you unquestionably think of 90s minimalism. So with Francisco Costa's latest vision the brand stick to what it does best yet for the modern age. In this collection Calvin Klein illustrates the importance of shape and texture, creating garments that range across the board on sensory experience. The looks include jackets that are thick as well as soft in preparation for any global warming winter and as Style.com describes could literally walk on their own accord without the model encased within. Contrast this with simple shift dresses that breezed down the catwalk in luminous fabric and you get a collection that's tells the story of texture. Fabrics ranged from deep rich piles to paper like textures and hues were within a coffee spectrum ranging from a double espresso to a light skinny latte. Every item shown has the ability to effortlessly transform their wearer to sensory delight , that not only will make you feel luxurious back make you look it too. Although Calvin Klein may have stuck with what they no best this season, Costa proves that you can produce style with substance.



L.A.M.B
A girl from every season and for Gwen Stefani's vision a girl for every day of the week. Closing New York Fashion Week Stefani provided not one vision but six styles of dress, leaving us with enough substance to provide the entirety of fashion week encapsulated in one dynamic show. Divided into six groups we were welcomed to the "Soldier Girls" wearing elements inspired directly by WWII displaying aviator jackets, tweed, houndstooth and military style prints. The Rasta "Ragga Muffins," in bright bold Jamaican hues teamed with earth tones and topped with beanies worn to heights resembling a secret stash of dreadlocks. Some "London Girls"were masculine dressed in leather bombers and tartan, as Malcolm McLaren-style "Buffalo Girls" wore plaids with bowler hats topping a wild mass of hair. The "Mod Girls" wore monochrome geometrics, and the "Glamour Girls" took on the role of a James Bond blonde bomb shell as they all were gifted with Stefani replica quiffs. The show although a little stereotypical in areas illustrated a fun side of fashion and after all that's what made Gwen Stefani's fans fall in love with her to begin with.



All Images: Style.com
Wang, the designer epitomised for dressing fashion's stylish elite returns this season with his own take on the luxury trend. Taking on items of sartorial autumn/winter fame, Wang provides a humorous satire as glasses become fur trimmed to the level of a full on mutton-chop and what appears to be waterproof knee high boots are slashed at the toes to create a puddles dream, a peep toe. However with Wang's considered choice of luxurious fabrics in monochrome ensembles (ranging from what should be called 'Wang Noir' after the designers choice of shade, to softer creams and golden hues), Wang has produced a collection that puts a twist on luxury expectations that doesn't scream absurd or foolish. Wang commented "We're almost poking fun at decadence and luxury."
This collection saw a return to the poncho yet Wang's interpretation created a dynamic and modern take on the 70's classic, as fabrics became quilted and over sized, in a singular block colour. Suit blazers were taken to elongated proportions and silhouettes were mastered to produce looks which battled all possible elements from Autumn to Winter. The concentration of fabric choices was key to the collection as fur and silks were positioned next to muted counterpoints in lapels and pockets to create textural garments, and the material capabilities were explored as satins returned to their ribbon-like capabilities in skirts and tops. Overall the collection countered luxury with the absurd but the Wang customer came out the winner with a whole new wardrobe for this winter.



Prabal Gurung
For this Autumn/Winter collection Prabal Gurung offers up a lady-like rebellion. Inspired by literary reference 'Great Expectations' you will find fitted silhouettes and high collared garments within the collection but do not expect them to be anything but traditional. Gurung's female has a rebellious spirit wearing her 50's inspired crimson gown yet with a structurally cut away neckline. The look is finished with tights resembling laced ribbon starting from toe and disappearing under the dress as they reach the dizzying height of the models upper leg. She has a Gothic edge and a classical tone. Her fingertips appear dipped in tar echoing detailing from ballets' Swan Lake' as well as creating a dynamic accessory to floor length organza gowns. The designer's aim was to create an 'undone' look as garments slip of shoulders while still emanating elegance.
Every garment upon the catwalk had an individualist spirit and it was clear that the construction was impeccable. The stand out element from the collection was the attention to detail. The fabric appeared hand crafted as looped knitted element appeared upon shoulders, beading and embroidery combined in a silver trail to construct a flower bed and as one dress appeared to be the garment equivalent of a shattered mirror. Towards the finale we saw Karlie Kloss walk down the catwalk appearing as a incarnation of a magpies wing. With the lustre of each feather and a dazzling plumage, the show concluded in a collection which is worth acquiring.



Vivienne Tam
Using her native country and inspiration Vivienne Tam turned to the Chinese Opera for this years Autumn/Winter collection. Taking this as inspiration was a risk as the drama of the Opera is hard to relate to Ready to Wear but throughout the collection Tam transversed the traditional patterns and colours to create curvaceous necklines that sculpted the model's frames and to provide as the basis of fabric manipulation. The collection featured darker colours from the spectrum with hints of teal and crimson and fabrics ranging from oriental patterned satins to crocheted monochromes. The successful elements of this collection laid in Tam's construction, giving a subtle but unique element for this winters wardrobe.



Images from style.com
Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 13 Feb 2011 at 4:05pm


On Wednesday 2nd February Glass was pleased to attend this years London College of Fashion MA graduates show at the V&A. The mood was set with complimentary champagne drunk amongst shadowed statues in the entrance hall as guests bustled with excitement. Led through a walkway of world masterpieces and tradition collections, this years graduate collections were revealed.
Entitled 'Duel' the catwalk exhibited the work of 22 young designers, showcasing a hot-bed of new talent and innovation. The Raphael Gallery played host to the procession as grand paintings looked upon clean lines and modern silhouettes, rainbow fringing, Arabic inspired head-pieces and gleaming male hot pants. From the 22 graduates 15 were menswear illustrating the new and excited innovation for a market that was previously over looked in comparison to womanswear. Menswear collections combined traditional tailoring and formalwear with new cropped shapes, detailing, finishes that sometimes became 'offbeat' or effeminate. The show crescendo was the presentations of the prestigious Collection of the Year award, presented to Italian born menswear graduate Matteo Molinari. Molinari presented formal suiting created to exaggerate proportions, as suit jackets became cropped and trousers became high waisted. The collection looked to a personal and unique use of hand crafted crocheted panels, inspired by his family trade. We will be keeping an eye on his name as well as Tim Rhys Evans, Jo Power, Mio Joan, Louise Simmonds and Asger Juel Larsen, as they prepare for a welcomed bright future.




All Images Courtesy of Rebecca Hawkes
Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 04 Feb 2011 at 1:58pm

Combining casual sportswear with formal tailoring has never been an easy task, but it is one that Cerruti 1881 have taken to effortlessley with their Spring/Summer 11 menswear collection. Unveiled on the 17th January at Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, in Mid-Levels, Hong Kong, the collection looks towards the philosophy and science behind sportswear. Classic elements from both casual and formal fashions have been married together to create a fresh and innovative appeal, that sees an incarnation of a denim three-piece suit. The collection hits the spot for summer occasions, when a weather appropriate ultra-lightweight double breasted jacket couples functionality and form. Overall Cerruti 1881's beauty lies in their effortless silhouettes, that maintain a youthful element even under the constraints of a shirt collar.


“Wang Shugang is one of the few contemporary Chinese sculptors who successfully capture an expression of the everyday in China with a playful approach to the mundane,” says Katherine Don, Director, RedBox Studio, “and his works extend past the art world to encompass living Chinese history.”

Wang
Shugang this January will be exhibiting work in the large atrium of The
Opposite House, Beijing. His work showcases a parallel between
traditional China and it's modern society, illustrating signature motifs
of anonymous characters solidified within the medium of sculpture.
Exhibited in conjunction with their counterpoints, these created beings
portray a rich sense of community and solidarity, while still offering a
playful representation of quite life within China. As a graduate of the
prestigious
Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing, Wang has gone on to become a
great export for China, working abroad and becoming widely exhibited
between China,
America and Europe. Today, however, we can see his work displayed within the
industrially dynamic space that The Opposite House offers, and for now,
that is definitely where it belongs.

Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 12 Jan 2011 at 11:04am

We have all heard the tale of Jesus turning water into wine and on November 16th the Macallan and Lalique set about creating a saintly deed comparable. They turned whisky into water. To raise money for Charity: Water, Macallan and Lalique auctioned, at Sotheby's, the most expensive bottle of Whisky ever sold. Raising $460,000 (towards their overall donation of $605,000), the bespoke one-of-a-kind crystal decanter by Lalique, The Cire Perdue, filled with Macallans rarest bottled, 64 year old single malt whisky, will provide clean water to over 30,000 people.

www. charitywater.org/themacallan
Edited by RebeccaHawkes - 25 Nov 2010 at 9:22pm
via London - New York - New Orleans

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