Whether or not you choose to believe in 'the other side', thereâs something arguably fascinating about the notion of the paranormal â where spirits communicate through the white noise of television sets, doors inexplicably slam in the dead of night and mysterious flying objects sail across the sky ...
Illamasqua have captured the essence of this fascination, with their new Paranormal collection for summer '13. A world away from the typical summer themes of getting a pretty bronzed glow, this ambitious collection delves into darker realms to fantastic effect.
The Paranormal Collection from Illamasqua
Rather than falling into the trap of tacky Halloween-style face paint, this latest offering from the maverick make-up brand is far more sophisticated. Two stand-out products from the range have to be the Paranormal Palette, ÂŁ34 â a quad of cream-to-powder iridescent shades in a petrochemical palette that will look stunning against tanned skin. Unlike the typical strong pigment Illamasqua is known for, these shadows provide subtle washes of colour for a translucent ghostly effect â they blend beautifully into each other too.
Illamasqua's Paranormal Palette
An interesting new addition to the Illamasqua family is their Hydra Veil, ÂŁ27.50 â a hydrator and primer for a smooth surface and a radiant ethereal texture. As many people tend to eschew foundation in the sweltering summer heat, we can see this becoming a highly popular alternative.
Also great fun are their Limited Edition UV Nail Varnishes, ÂŁ15 each, which we predict will be flying off the shelves come festival season, with aptly spooky names: Omen (bright green), Ouija (pink) and SĂŠance (violet). The range also comes with a Paranormal UV Top Coat in Geist, ÂŁ13, which can be painted over normal nail varnish to make it glow under UV light.
Illamasqua Limited Edition UV Nail Varnish in Omen
âThe Paranormal collection was inspired by unbridled kinetic energy, spectral light and transcendental emotional forces,â explains Creative Director Alex Box. âThe things we canât explain, that we can only feel, the place between dreams and reality; the door of perception is open and is beckoning you through. Step into the light.â
Glass had great fun chatting to Box at the launch event, who was dressed up as a psychic medium, complete with a table of tarot cards. Box's idea of Illamasqua's ethos is clear. "We would never encourage our customers to 'get a particular look' - we want them to experiment and find their own individuality. It's make-up after all, you can just wash it off so don't be afraid to try something new!"
As an acclaimed make-up artist, Box refuses to join the fad for online beauty tutorials. "Ten years ago it would be unthinkable to ask an artist how they created a particular look - now I get countless requests. The reason I would never do a 'how to', is that my approach is different to every face I work on. I would never have a single way of creating a look. Also there is no right or wrong way of doing make-up - I want aspiring artists and people in general to create their own unique style rather than just copy everything I'm doing. Make-up should be about true creativity rather than just paint-by-numbers."
The Paranormal Collection is available April 30th from Illamasqua stores and www.illamasqua.com
Check out the teaser video to accompany the collection below:
On April 18th, Glass was invited to The Conran Shop in Chelsea by Fornasetti Profumi to witness an ancient KĹdĹ (Japanese Incense) ceremony performed by incense master Souhitsu Isshikenn Hachiya.
Incense Master Souhitsu Isshikenn Hachiya
Fornasetti Profumi have an incense version of their home scent âOttoâ complete with decorative incense boxes boasting some of their famously eccentric designs. The scent itself combines Mediterranean herbs and woods, resulting in a rich and intoxicating blend â which is especially potent in incense form.
'Otto' incense is produced by the renowned Japanese manufacturer Nippon Kodo â and is a world away from the musty, 'hippieâ connotations incense has acquired in the West. The Japanese believe different types of incense can aid relaxation or help people to feel more awake and alert. Incense is also said to bring peace and harmony to a household.
Incense Boxes by Fornasetti Profumi
Souhitsu Isshikenn Hachiya is the 21st generation master of Shino-ryu (The Shino Incense School) and works to educate others through lectures and school visits on this ancient art, which is just as integral to Japanese culture as their famous tea ceremonies (SadĹ) and flower arranging ceremonies (KadĹ).
The KĹdĹ Ceremony
Some facts about KĹdĹ:
It was first introduced to Japan from China to be incorporated into Buddhist ceremonies in 6th Century AD (the word âKohâ means Japanese incense).
It was used often by Japanese aristocrats for several hundred years, particularly during the Edo period (1603 â 1868) with many holding Incense Appreciation gatherings and using it to scent love letters.
Warriors also used it to scent themselves before a battle â if they were slain, they still didnât want the enemy to be offended by the smell of their rotting corpses!
The woods and spices used in Japanese incense are not actually from Japan but from the jungles of Southeast Asia. The most popular type of wood used is known in Japanese as âJin-kohâ. It is said the tree's decay gives the wood its unique aromatic scent.
KĹdĹ (âThe Way of Incenseâ) was established by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, a patron of the arts who enlisted his vassal Shino Soshin to classify and evaluate the various incense woods with the help of eminent scholar Sanjonishi Sanetaka.
Later professional KĹdĹ instructors began to emerge to teach incense appreciation, which recently experienced a resurgence of interest in the 1960s with two school Shino and Oie teaching this ancient art.
Incense Master Souhitsu Isshikenn Hachiya
Fornasetti Profumi Incense Boxes with 80 Incense Sticks are ÂŁ145 available at The Conran Shop, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD and www.fornasetti.com/en
More information on KĹdĹ can be found here.
Here at Glass HQ, we're extremely particular when choosing skincare with which to grace our bathroom cabinet. Below are five products which made the cut ...
A hard-working serum is essential to any anti-aging regime. This latest offering from Bliss (the New York spa chain best known for their coveted Triple Oxygen Facials) firms the skin and boosts collagen with gardenia stem cells and a 99% active aloe base.
Bliss Firm Baby Firm Dual-Action Lifting + Volumizing Serum
This mask pops and crackles on the skin but fear not - it's doing a hell of a lot of good. Left on the skin for 5 minutes, it delivers a concoction of vitamins, botanical extracts and antioxidants, as well as the brandâs patented Trylacel technology protect and heal the skin. It also has a maximum concentration of active ingredients for a real anti-aging boost.
Radical Skincare Instant Revitalizing Mask
Containing 84% organic ingredients, this eco-friendly balm, with apricot kernel, sunflower and shea butter, is a treat for dry or sensitive skin. Leave it on the skin for several minutes and it works like a mask to deeply cleanse the pores and soothe the skin.
Suti Cleanse Facial Cleansing Balm
Apply at night and you can still feel the effects of this cream the morning after. This is due no doubt to the high supply of Q10, found naturally in the skin as part of its own natural anti-aging complex, together with nourishing pro-retinol. It works especially well on sensitive or irritated skin too â ideal for when a stressful day has taken its toll on your face.
Eucerin Q10 Active Anti-Wrinkle Night Cream
Our skin's been feeling as soft as butter since we've been using this cream. Ideal for dry or sensitive skin, it fights against aging, plumps and repairs with an advanced, plant-sourced Omega3 Phyto Complex and an exclusive infusion of special Life Re-Newing Moleculesâ˘ inspired by the field of Epigenetics. Science-heavy stuff which delivers the goods.
Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Replenishing Comfort CrĂ¨me
There are few people who can wax lyrical on fragrance more effectively than Master Perfumer Roja Dove, who has spearheaded bringing quality and craftsmanship back into perfumery. So we weren't surprised to hear that the charismatic ânoseâ has recently been appointed International Ambassador for the GREAT Britain Campaign â designed to highlight Britainâs creative culture and promote investment and tourism in the UK. And considering customers fly in from all over the world to visit Doveâs lavish boutique (The Haute Parfumerie) in Harrods, we couldnât imagine a better figurehead to help boost British trade.
Dove himself commented, âI am proud to support the GREAT campaign, and to be an Ambassador for Creativity is GREAT Britain. Britain is indeed a creative nation, and although we are home to less than one per cent of the worldâs population, the UK has one of the largest creative industries sectors in the world. It is a place where imagination can flourish to create fragrances, films, music, design, and literature that connect with people around the world.â
Read a previous interview with Roja Dove here.
Sometimes all of us need an extra little mental push to help us get out of bed and face the day. Aromatherapy Associates Founder Geraldine Howard has created a product which claims to do just that. For those who might raise a cynical eyebrow, Howard has created Inner Strength Bath & Shower Oil to help her through her own struggle whilst battling with cancer. The oil contains ingredients to keep the mind calm yet focused, with clary sage, frankincense, cardamom and rose, together with geranium to stimulate circulation and promote emotional well-being. Aromatherapy Associatesâ products are used in many of the worldâs top spas, so whether itâs for emotional support or just adding a bit of luxury to your daily routine, most of us could do with a bottle of this at the side of their bath. Whatâs more, 100% of proceeds will be donated to The Foundation ATK, a Dutch charity which is currently developing a new cancer vaccination.
Aromatherapy Associates Inner Strength Bath & Shower Oil is ÂŁ39 available from Space NK and online at www.aromatherapyassociates.com
The first premium fragrance by Yardley London, inspired by the Roaring Twenties (with a stunning handbag-sized art deco bottle). With pear, freesia, ginger and patchouli, we canât emphasise enough how gorgeous this pretty chypre fragrance is â it certainly puts a spring in our step when weâve a show to cover at 8am!
Beloved by beauty editors, this cult product gives drained, tired skin its zing back. It can be used as a primer, hydrating mask or left on overnight to give your complexion a much-needed pick-me-up. The mask contains bee venom known as ânatureâs botoxâ to control the facial muscles, healing manuka honey and super hydrating shea butter, rose and lavender oils.
M.A.C. Mineralize Moisture SPF Foundation (launching in March)
Although we're normally too besotted by M.A.C's amazing lipsticks to focus on their base range, we love this new foundation which gives the hydrated, dewy finish of a BB cream, whilst delivering more coverage. Make-up artists were fighting over this one backstage....!
This clutch bag-sized, cute little cream blush stick is part of Topshop's new spring collection. Produces a vivid coral shade, guaranteed to perk up the most sleep-deprived, hungover complexions!
Matte lips are massive this season, so a lip stain is ideal for perfecting this look. Even though this one by Ms. Mercier is a âstainâ itâs super-moisturising texture keep our lips lovely and soft whilst tinting them a dramatic russet red.
A texturised, gothic smoky eye is an emerging trend from New York Fashion Week, as seen at Donna Karan a/w13
As London Fashion Week gets underway, GLASS caught up with M.A.C Senior Artist Caroline Donnelly at Somerset House to chat about the emerging beauty trends for a/w13
What shows have you done so far?
Iâve done LCF [London College of Fashion] which M.A.C.Senior Artist Andrew Galliimore headed up. The theme for the show was a âfrozen girlsâ look, although they still looked quite healthy at the same time! It was really pretty actually, we used cream nude-coloured shadow over the eyelids (M.A.C.'s new Paint Pots which are going to be huge when they launch!) and then went over it with a silvery blue highlighter to give a frozen feel. On the cheeks, we used a blusher called Posey, the kind of colour kids have when theyâve been out playing, then we put a bluey pearly pigment over the top to give it a frozen feel.
Before a show, does the designer tell you exactly the type of make-up look they want?
They might have a little idea of what they want or just a mood of what they want â i.e. not specifically an orange lip but they might show us a mood board and we'll interpret from that. We always do a test a few days before the show with one model wearing the makeup we want to create and then discuss it with the designer.
Looking at New York Fashion Week, what trends have you seen emerging so far?
Metallics are still there, for spring/summer13 they were more solid like a gold leaf, but this time around, itâs more of a soft hint of metallic. Another big trend I've noticed is gothic makeup, but not the traditional 1980s goth. It's done with more modern textures, so rather than a strong eyeliner and a powdery eyeshadow, itâs more of a creamy texture. Where skin's concerned, it's all about conditioning, so lots of moisturiser and primer - the kind of skin we wished we had! People have been using BB creams instead of foundation as it gives a more hydrated texture.
But I've been trialling M.A.C's new foundation which launches in March called Mineralize Moisture SPF 15 Foundation. It gives a similar dewy texture to a BB Cream but offers more coverage. We've then used a slight dusting of powder to remove the shine but not the sheen â it sets the make-up but doesnât take the glow away. Overall Iâd say itâs more about the beautiful woman rather than the beautiful make-up â and artists have generally been working with colour tones that are naturally found in the skin.
Do different cities tend to have their own make-up look?
London and Paris, are more experiemental. New York seem to have a bit of everything going on. Milanâs always very polished and elegant â ladylike make-up as a stereotype. You do feel that working in different cities, there's a certain type of make-up you have to do.
What are your favourite beauty looks you like to create?
If I could only do a single make-up look for the rest of my life, Iâd be really upset! I like the variety of my job, Iâve got a quite short attention span so thatâs what keeps me interested. I guess, I love creating beautiful skin. You always have to make the skin look amazing whatever you do, as thatâs the basis of good makeup. You donât have to be good at lipstick or eyeliner but you can't get away with not doing skin properly!
Beautifully conditioned, hydrated âno make-upâ skin is another big beauty trend for a/w13, as seen at Carolina Herrara
What are your top tips for great skin?
Donât say âwell my friendâs moisturiser works well for her so thatâs the one Iâm going to useâ. Whether a product works well or not generally depends on the person and their skin type. Learn about your own skin. If itâs oily, it can also be dehydrated. You may need to change your moisturiser for winter or summer, depending on the weather. If you put foundation on and it looks really flaky, then your skinâs probably de-hydrated. Look at the colouring of your skin - does it always look a little bit grey? Maybe you can apply some illuminator. Get advice from an expert and buy stuff thatâs specific for you, not just whatâs been recommended.
As a make-up artist, what are the best tips youâve picked up throughout your career?
Use a stippling brush like M.A.C's 130 Brush after you put your makeup on, to really blend it in. Itâs going to make you look as if you havenât got any base on! If you put blusher on and it looks like a blob, blend it in around the edges with a foundation brush to soften it down a little. Also, donât skimp on eye cream â skin can get really dry around the eyes which is obviously going to effect the way your make-up looks. And use an eyelash curler, hold at the roots for 20 seconds and then squeeze around the lashes otherwise itâll look a bit L-shaped.
Images courtesy of M.A.C Cosmetics
by Viola Levy
Dr Nick Lowe Super Charged SPF 15 Day Cream
At a recent talk with renowned dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe, we learned that just popping on a moisturiser or foundation with added SPF isnât enough. âUnless it specifically states it protects against UVA rays (the biggest cause of ageing), it wonât give you the anti-ageing benefits youâre after.â Weâve taken his advice on board and are now slathering on his Super Charged SPF 15 Day Cream (ÂŁ17.49) every morning. drnicklowe.com
NARS Light Reflecting Powder Duo
NARSâs new Light Reflecting Setting Powder has been a lifesaver during busy days when we donât want our make-up to slide off come mid-afternoon. With light, translucent particles, it sets foundation and concealer without making the complexion look too flat, dry or cakey. Available as a loose powder (ÂŁ25) to dust on first thing in the morning, or as a pressed powder compact (ÂŁ25) for touch ups during the day, itâs slowly becoming one of our beauty heroes of 2013! narscosmetics.co.uk
(L) Estee Lauder Pure Colour Nail Lacquer in Absinthe (R) Butter London Nail Lacquer in Cuppa
Two very different nail varnishes have caught our eye for spring. The first is Cuppa by Butter London (ÂŁ13), a refined beige shade that looks oh so chic when painted on the nails. And for a joyous burst of colour, we love Estee Lauderâs new Absinthe Pure Colour Nail Lacquer (ÂŁ14.50) â the colour of Tinkerbellâs dress. butterlondon.com / harrods.com
TIGI Bed Head Straighten Out Straightening Cream
Running from the gym to work, one doesnât really have time to blow-dry their hair and then go over it with ceramic straighteners, which is why we're rather enamoured with TIGI Bed Headâs Straighten Out 99% Humidity Defying Straightening Cream (ÂŁ13.50). A blob of this combed through wet hair makes locks swishy, shiny and pretty much frizz-free with just a quick blast under the dryer. A gym bag essential. thehairroom.co.uk
by Viola Levy
Weâre still undecided on which of Penhaligonâs scents we like the most (weâre currently entranced by Ellenisia, a fleshy, voluptuous floral - ooh la la!). One thingâs for sure, our love affair with Penhaligonâs itself â which has been around since 1872 - will never fade. With its quirky English charm and numerous wonderful and exotic scents, the brand has a vast and loyal following, ranging from its long-standing clients to a new generation of fragrance fans.
Each Penhaligonâs boutique is unique in its own way, for example their North London store in Islington resembles a bijoux boudoir, while their Covent Garden store is more of a glamorous curiosity shop. One of its most famous stores is on Regent Street, which has just been spruced up Edwardian-style by designer Christopher Jenner. The revamped store is modernity-meets-Edwardian grandeur, boasting purple padded walls and Brighton Pavillion dome chandeliers. Itâs almost as much of a treat to enter the store itself, as it is to sniff and swoon over the olfactory treasures contained within. We recommend you have a nose around ...
Penhaligonâs, 125 Regent Street London W1B 4HT
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