2012’s new skincare launches focus on the complex network of connections deep within our skin cells – Glass cherrypicks three of the best
When selecting a skin cream, your priorities may not extend beyond whether something seems deeply hydrating with a nice smell and luxurious texture – and perhaps some celebrity endorsement thrown in. But if you examine deep within the skin’s surface, there lies an impressively organised connections system –one which skincare companies are steadily tapping into, with new launches seemingly every week. Below are three Glass were most impressed with – all brought forth visible results with some strong science behind them.
First up is Estée Lauder’s new Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Ageing Crème which incorporates Intuigen Technology, derived from bamboo extract, which stimulates Nrf2 – the skin cells’ natural protection system. Glass spoke to Lauder’s team of scientists in New York to find out more. “Skin naturally responds to its changing needs over time by activating its genes to stimulate cell functions. With time, these cell functions begin to slow down, inducing the visible signs of ageing. Nrf2 is a “master switch” which turns on multiple anti-ageing pathways within the skin, supporting skin cells in their natural age-resisting functions.
So how does it work? “Nrf2 helps stimulate the natural production of critically important proteins and enzymes, such as Glutathione, Catalase, and Superoxide Dismutase, to help skin resist the environmental stresses that can accelerate ageing. Nrf2 activates over 200 genes across four gene categories, including Purifying Enzymes, Anti-stress, Anti-inflammatories and Anti-oxidant categories – all vital in helping defend skin from premature ageing.” The cream also contains Advanced SIRT-1 Technology which supports the specific cells which carry out restorative functions, together with a Barrier Building Complex of anti-irritants and anti-oxidants that further protect against free radicals caused by sun exposure. A veritable facial in a jar, Glass saw visible results after one overnight application. £56 available at Selfridges
For those who feel their skin has lost its elasticity over the years, Clarins have launched a new version of their classic Extra-Firming range launched in 1978 in the form of a Day Wrinkle Lifting Cream and a Night Replenishing Cream. The day cream contains organic green banana extract, which stimulates the protein anchors which link together collagen fibres to cells – reinforcing the skin’s resilience. It also contains organic lemon thyme, an extract which boosts the production of the protein Emilin 1 which restructures and organises elastin fibres to keep the skin supple. The night cream focuses on the key elements responsible for skin cell renewal during sleep – keratinocyte stem cells, Langerhans cells and skin nerve endings. It uses the peptide Survixyl IS to help stimulate integrins: two key proteins which signal and inform a cell about its environment, as well as a protein called Survivin which helps prolong the lifespan of stem cells. Another key ingredient is Stimulen which protects the skin’s Langerhans cells helping to fight against free-radical damage. Our mature testers were more than impressed with the results both creams yielded over six weeks. From £46 available at John Lewis
Those who prefer natural skincare over chemicals will be pleased to hear REN have launched their new Bio Retinoid Anti-Ageing Concentrate. The concentrate increases collagen by activating 2.8 times more retinoid RXR receptors which are related to collagen production. REN’s skin expert Mohamed Rzal explains further. “Retinoid RXR receptors are nuclear receptors in the cell which receive retinoic acid molecule signals. When this happens, the joining of the receptor with retinoic acid activates the genes responsible for collagen production.” Hence with an increase in collagen, the skin is left feeling plumper and firmer.
So where does the natural element figure? “Vitamin A is a source of retinoic acid which is obtained through an oxidation process. REN Bio Retinoid uses the only natural form of Vitamin A available in the cosmetic world which comes from Rosehip Seed Oil.” he explains. “Also we use natural β-carotene which happens to be a precursor of Vitamin A, meaning that the body can create Vitamin A out of β-carotene molecules. Finally, our main natural technology is what we call a Bio Retinoid Analogue, directly competing with Synthetic Retinol commonly used in cosmetics and is proven to irritate the skin. REN Bio Retinoid Analogue is not a Vitamin A derivate, but a molecule which has the same incredible ability to increase the retinoid RXR receptors (therefore collagen) but without the associated irritation of synthetic retinol.” Caring and clever – now that certainly is progress. £42 for 30ml available at SpaceNK