Freud for thought

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I’ve lost count of the number of perfumes that portray women as some intangible fantasy figure. She’s either a nymphette trotting around Paris in her stilettos, or a femme fatale, posing seductively in a men’s armchair in heels and little else. Otherwise, she’s running through a sepia-tinted field of flowers in a gingham dress – a picture of innocence and purity (as envisioned by marketing companies).

Then occasionally, there are perfumes that are inspired by actual women – fascinating, worldly-wise, creative women, with a backstory and a history. Which is why Bella Freud’s new signature scent is like a breath of fresh air (although not literally, thank goodness).

Created by Freud’s close friend Azzi Glasser (a celebrated “nose” who has concocted bespoke scents for the likes of Kate Moss and Helena Bonham Carter) – this scent isn’t necessarily designed to seduce or make one smell like a teenage supermodel. The bouquet is based around amber (which Freud’s mother was very fond of), which is given a good kick of enveloping patchouli and smoky vetiver. At the launch it was presented to press on tiny muslin scarves; inhaling it reminded me of the perfume-drenched scarves my own mother used to wear. Dizzying and blissful.

Bella Freud Signature Perfume pink

Bella Freud Signature Perfume pink

Freud is famed for her sweaters bearing slogans such as “Ginsberg is God” and “Je T’aime Jane” and has created a number of fashion and short films – several with John Malkovich – as well as her famed stints at Biba and Jaeger. She and Glasser have been friends for a long time, with Glasser previous creating a trio of scents to complement Freud’s designs – each one is named after her famous slogans. (Ginsberg is God is particularly wonderful: a leathery, smoky number, conjuring a poet surrounded by leatherbound books and tobacco.) For this latest scent, the bottle is emblazoned with Freud’s logo – her name and a little dog as sketched by her father, the artist Lucien Freud.

There’s nothing dainty or delicate about this perfume, much like Freud’s tomboyish designs. In an interview, the designer mentioned how she often wears the same outfit and doesn’t like to deviate, in the same way a scent should resonant with her and feel homely, safe and comfortable, like the smell of a well-loved scarf or make-up bag I imagine.

Bella Freud Signature Box

Bella Freud Signature Box

Glasser in turn was keen to emphasise how loyal the designer is as a friend, hence like the lingering power of this creation. It certainly has a timeless quality – no overtly sexy florals or squeaky clean citrus notes here. But instead, like the woman who inspired it, it has a somewhat beguiling, mesmerising power all of its own.

by Viola Levy

Bella Freud Signature Eau de Parfum is £75 for 50ml at Selfridges

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