Glass visits Chicken Shop’s new outpost in Holborn

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Let’s go to the Chicken Shop – a phrase that until now was mostly reserved for the inebriated – has experienced somewhat of a renaissance of late. That’s because of the aptly named Chicken Shop, part of the Soho House group, launched in 2012, and its comforting, free-range rotisserie chicken. The restaurant has become quite the institution, quickly expanding to include five locations – four in London and one in Chicago. The most recent is in Holborn, and this is where we had the pleasure of feasting.

It’s located within the new Hoxton Holborn Hotel, though we enter via a separate, side entrance. The interior is modelled on an American general store circa 1950, and it’s a theme that works quite well – dark wood tables, exposed plank walls and a large bureau with apothecary-like drawers leave enough space for 70 diners and a host of waiters. We’re right next to the chalk board, which is ample enough to entertain the simple menu: rotisserie chicken, sides and drinks. The wine is organised into “house”, “decent” and “good”, which is a charming, and pretty honest, touch. There are also a good range of beers, like Brew Dog Dead Pony Club, Portobello Pilsner and Camden Pale Ale.

We opt for a whole chicken, fries and coleslaw. It all comes quickly; the chicken’s marinated and then put onto a spit, and we can see it spinning and browning in the open kitchen before it is served. The portion is generous, and it does taste great, but at times we were left wishing it has been left a little longer to crisp on the outside. The sides are good too, and there are homemade sauces on the table to go with them – hot and smokey.

The portions are big, and perhaps a whole chicken plus sides is a little too ambitious for two people. When it comes to dessert, we opt to share a portion of apple pie. The waitress comes over with a mammoth pie dish and delivers a huge slab onto a plate that’s already decorated with dainty scoop of sweet vanilla ice cream.

In all honesty, the apple pie might have been the highlight of the meal. The crust – of which we had plenty – was crispy, and crumbly and deep, oven-rich brown. The filling was sugary and thick, but hadn’t compromised the integrity of its surrounds. The main course was notable, but, for us, it was the apple pie that really put Chicken Shop a slice above.

by Becky Zanker

Chicken Shop Holborn, 199-206 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7BD

Tel: 020 7661 3040

Chicken Shop can be found on twitter

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Glass Online dining and culture writer

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