The high-end jewellery brand Bulgari which doesn’t limit itself to being merely a brand, the house should be considered more as a seneschal of “glam” culture instead, have now put emphasis on horological understanding with their new London flagship store exhibition Chiming Time.
The first of its kind, Chiming Time, presents a selection of Bulgari’s finest timepieces which epitomise the connoisseurship of Bulgari Haute Horlogerie, jewelled and Grand Complication watches. Documenting every element of the expert discipline that is watch-making, from the elegance, precision and playfulness to the Swiss workmanship that makes for the magnificence of crafting a pristine timepiece, elite watch-making has never been so celebrated. In an informative journey that takes one from Bulgari’s iconic Serpentis to the Naturalia, the Tubogas and Berries, in a number of compelling contemporary forms.
Glass talks to Bulgari’s Senior Director of Watches Design, Fabrizio Stigliani about Chiming Time.
Chiming Time stands as the first curated exhibition of specially selected watches completed by Bulgari’s esteemed watchmakers. There is a first time for everything, but tell Glass why this is a particularly remarkable addition to Bulgari’s horological prestige?
With the Chiming Time exhibition Bulgari is presenting for the first time a selection of the brand’s most iconic jewelled and Grande Complication watches to the audience and watch connoisseurs. These creations translate into watchmaking masterpieces our most iconic jewelry pieces and designs and embody the ultimate level of horological complexity, fusing the Swiss watchmaking know-how with the Italian creativity.
Bulgari is known primarily for jewellery that transcends mere jewelled fancies. However, what would you say set’s Bulgari’s watches on another level, much like the jewellery?
Bulgari watchmaking benefits a great deal from its jewelry codes. Which is precisely what makes it atypical in the world of watchmaking, often a very normed and classical industry. Even if Swiss know-how has been added to these very Roman jewelry codes -which is what makes up the Bulgari style – our own watchmaking creates products that have a lot of character, a lot of vigor. They are very structured, without compromise, one could say. These are products that reflect Rome, because Rome is awe-inspiring, it is magnificent, it is also a city that stands no compromise, regardless of the century. Whether you are looking at the Coliseum, which goes all the way back to ancient Rome, or some of the more recent palaces from the Neoclassical period, you will always find that power, that opulence in our jewelry and watches.
Comparably, what makes Bulgari’s superbly contemporary precious timepieces tie in with Bulgari’s fine jewellery heritage?
We always use the same aesthetic codes that are part of the brand. Bold, colourful, historic yet innovative, Bulgari jewellery creations are today chromatic masterpieces and are instantly recognizable to all.
Bulgari’s earliest watch production can be dated back to the early 20th century, but what has changed most considerably in the high-end timepiece market since the 1920s?
The market changed a lot since then. Nowadays the offer is wider, there is much more competition and the quest for quality is extremely high. This a very important segment for Bulgari, where we are currently able to compete with extra thin watches and impressive in-house movements. Only a few brands can currently claim such global mastery: a the true privilege of players in the luxury sector.
What new developments in watchmaking is Bulgari’s timepiece division offering to their modern consumers?
A key example of Bulgari’s new offer and approach in watchmaking is represented by the new Octo Finissimo which at 1.95mm is the thinnest tourbillon in the world – a world record. This achievement compresses the Octo design into the finest platinum case while retaining all the impact of the iconic Bulgari design. The watch is both a precision timepiece and an architectural creation that pays lively tribute to Italian creative genius. Avoiding simplistic approaches and preconceived ideas, this timepiece is the signature of a remarkable, unusual and meticulous personality in a market segment characterized by very different aesthetic codes so far.
On a more personal level though Fabrizio, what is your favourite element the savoir-faire substance that goes into Bulgari’s design codes?
The Bulgari creations’ unmistakable sense of volume, the quest of purity in the design, the love for linearity and symmetry as well as the certain details recalling art and architecture are among my favorite elements.
by Liam Feltham
Bulgari’s Chiming Time can be located in their 168 New Bond Street London flagship store
Images courtesy of Bulgari